This discussion has been locked.
You can no longer post new replies to this discussion. If you have a question you can start a new discussion

Control (Dimming) Options for 12V LEDs on Motorcycle?

As well as an Engineer (admittedly retd), I'm also a motorcyclist. Just decided to try and fit my M/C with some additional lamps so that it shows up better amongst the pretty Christmas trees that are nowadays marketed as four wheeled individual transport. You've probably seen a similar effect on the big chunky crossing-continents style bikes.

(This paragraph is a background rant, skippable) I wanted to achieve something akin to a daylight running light (DRL). However, on looking at what I can buy, there's a problem. It seems aftermarket lamps for motorcycles are generally sold as fog/spot/driving/auxiliary lamps. I mean, the sales blurb claims one lamp is all of those (and more). Which is odd, as the beam pattern (and homologation, where done), of fog and spot lamps is completely different. And indeed regulations limit the use of fog lamps to, err, fog, and I believe the use of spot to with main beam (Although I have also heard that these regs don't actually or entirely apply to M/C - I'm uneasy about that, especially abroad). I think “driving” means same as “spot”, and “auxiliary” means, well, nothing much. In summary, the cheap suppliers were selling snake oil, and the expensive suppliers sold homologated lamps for use in fog or with main beam. Spot type lamps are also especially useless to me, as my bike's LED dipped beam is quite visible over a narrow angle, but very weakly visible off centre, I want a wide spread.

So, I bought two general purpose 10W each, 12V packaged vehicle LEDs, sold as much for off roaders or lighting load areas. A garage test shows a nice wide, unfocussed, spread. I think they will be very visible in the day, over a wide angle, and at night on dark roads (with main beam), will help illuminate around bends.

But, I'm concerned that at night in busier areas, they may be too bright and dazzle other drivers, or cause unwanted aggravation. So, I'm wondering about a dimming arrangement, so I can manually dim them, and, hopefully, override that with the high beam.

I am not assuming they'd behave in a simple linear(ish) fashion like an incandescent bulb, but have nothing else to work on. They might even be smart enough to maintain full output at much lower supply voltage. They might really dislike being fed PWM. I don't want to try to dismantle them to find out (cheapskate only bought 2), as they will really need their weatherproofing. Anyone know what circuitry might be typical in such products?

Thought A was to switch them between normal parallel connection and series, with a switch and mainbeam driving a DPDT relay through diode OR logic. However, it gives no real design choice of how dim - probably too dim, 6V may not be enough to operate (or reliably). And it seems the automotive industry doesn't offer DPDT relays in “outdoor” packaging with spade terminals (only SPDT).

Thought B was to put in a series resistor, shorted by a SPST relay, switched as above. But the resistor would have to be pretty chunky, and get hot, so presents a bit of a packaging problem on a modern M/C, with every crevice rammed with pipes, wires & boxes.

Any guidance or tips'n'tricks on these sort of packaged LED products appreciated?

  • AA cells are  a rattling fit into 20mm overflow pipe with a few turns of tape to plump them up if you want to make an economy holder . AAAs are pretty good inside the speedfit 15mm plastic tube.

    New alkaline cells will give in excess of 5A, but not for very long. I'd expect 12V worth to manage 10W.

    Filament lamps make a cheap series dropper and give  a visible indication of operation. But the resistance is very dependant on the current - cold the resistance of a tungsten filament is about 10% of the resistance when white hot.

    A variable PSU is much better. There are some nice ones made for the Ham radio market.

    Mike. 

  • Sound thinking. Thanks.

    Variable input, no, I don't. Only AAAs. Not sure AAA cells would cut the mustard (maybe for one 10W lamp), and they'd be dubious to use for anything critical afterwards, methinks, capacity at most being around 1Ah. And I'd have to make a battery holder, or have the little buggers pinging off everywhere.

    I might try a benchtop series connection, to measure current. If they work - I imagine very dim - it will at least confirm an operating range, and if current consumption is linear may indeed indicate the simple construction you say is likely. I could try winding a 4 or 5 ohm resistor out of old motor wire, since it hangs around somewhere.

    I suppose it's another excuse to invest in a bench PSU, which I have indeed been coveting. In my teens I made myself one, but I think I dumped it once safely launched in a career where the work labs were always well equipped. A short-sighted strategy, now I'm retired! I did keep my teenage multimeter though, and it still works well, if not calibrated.

    It is rather limiting, since retiring, having just an old car battery… perhaps eBay beckons…

  • Do you have a multimeter and a source of variable voltage  (at a push a stack of 1,5V cells might do...)? 

    First measure the current, and note the brightness, as the voltage is varied. This will tell you if they dim as you require. Let us know what you find.

    A constant power SMPS is only likely in lamps designed to run on either 24 V or 12V, while the 12V only types are usually much simpler, just being about 9V worth  of LED chips in series, also in series  with a resistor that sets the current to by just right on 13V, a bit dim on 11, and rather too bright on 15… 

    Anything more complex would eat into both profit and reliability.

    Mike.