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60 Amp Junction Box.

Zoomup
Mornin' All,

                      I came upon a burnt out terminal on a Crabtree ceiling 50 Amp. shower cord switch yesterday. The cables had become so hot after 3 years of use that the line P.V.C. had completely fallen off the conductor and had left a horrible black smelly sticky mess.


I had to replace the shower cord switch, but the damaged cable was then too short after removing the softened copper and damaged insulation.


So I had to make a trap in the room upstairs, which turned out to be wooden boards over other wooden boards to access the cable below with a view to lengthening one cable. I used a new 60 Amp junction box as it allows two large conductors to overlap and be secured by 4 screws. It is solid and of good quality.


It is this item.....

https://www.toolstation.com/60a-junction-box/p98775?store=N2&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIufLP1ZD25gIVybTtCh2YWAeiEAQYASABEgJZkvD_BwE


Z.
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    How much free space is there inside a correctly crimp terminal for solder?


    Andy B
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    Crimp joint failures danunder.....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xl8oPUNc2cc


    I have seen just too may of these failures, especially on 2.5mm2 copper joints to have confidence in them in homes. A circular copper wire in a circular tube exposed to a small torque = a loose joint.


    Z.


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    I am surprised nobody has mentioned soldering yet? Is this a dying skill? It really doesn't take very long with a decent setup, and if the joints are well made, it's as good as the original cable.



     

    Please Sir! Please Sir! But Sir I did. I mean I did mention soldering earlier on in this thread. Honest Sir I did, I really did.  Do I get my detention cancelled now Sir?  Sirrrrrrrrrrr?


    Z.

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    One of my best ever EBay purchases was a brand new Klauke hex crimpers for less than forty quid including delivery, they never fail to impress customers when they come out of the van.


    I still use 60-amp junction boxes to extend 10 and 16 mm twin and earth cables as they are much neater on these cables, despite having a serious pair of crimpers and heat shrink to hand.


    6 mm cables can be joined the using big red Wago connectors  in an enclosure.


    Andy Betteridge
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    MHRestorations:

    I am surprised nobody has mentioned soldering yet? Is this a dying skill? It really doesn't take very long with a decent setup, and if the joints are well made, it's as good as the original cable.






    Zoomup:

    I like the idea of crimping on lugs and then soldering them as well. The initial crimping holds the lug and the solder fills any voids afterwards and reduces the possibility of corrosion. . A small hole in the lug allows air to escape when soldering. Lugs were soldered on years ago for connection to bus-bars etc. It is not a good idea to solder on fine stranded wires as they can break due to any vibration in vehicles or vibrating machines though.



    I certainly haven't had problems with soldered connexions in motor cars over the years, even battery cables.


    However, we must be mindful of 526.9.

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    In my experience, there's a WORLD of difference between single indent crimps (commonly used up to 10-16mm2) and a proper, hydraulic hexagonal crimp installed properly.


    However, even with the standard red/blue/yellow plastic cased crimps, if a decent tool is used, and care taken, it works even on solid core wire (a worst case scenario).


    I am surprised nobody has mentioned soldering yet? Is this a dying skill? It really doesn't take very long with a decent setup, and if the joints are well made, it's as good as the original cable.
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    My current role involves a lot of domestic properties. We have, on average, one shower switch burnt out per week due to loose terminals. I have 2 other very experienced sparkies with me. We all make sure the terminals are as tight as we can get them, yet there are still failures from loose terminals that we know we have tightened properly when we installed them.



     




    So, do you think that the problem is due to the modern single screw shower switch terminals as opposed to twin screw terminals? Or poor manufacture? The vibration of the clunky switch mechanisms, Or another reason? 


    Z.

  • 0

     



    I would consider crimps on a 40 Amp shower circuit cable a "no no." The 4 screw per terminal 60 Amp junction box that I used is much much better.

     





    Then why did I, in my previous role, crimp quite a lot of cables up to 185mm CSA, with the full support of the DNO who had contracted us?

    You are wrong, I think crimps would be the better option compared to screw terminals, which can come loose, however hard you screw them up.


    My current role involves a lot of domestic properties. We have, on average, one shower switch burnt out per week due to loose terminals. I have 2 other very experienced sparkies with me. We all make sure the terminals are as tight as we can get them, yet there are still failures from loose terminals that we know we have tightened properly when we installed them.

  • 0
    Big lug crimping...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVT5IsCGNyA


    Z.
  • 0
    I like the idea of crimping on lugs and then soldering them as well. The initial crimping holds the lug and the solder fills any voids afterwards and reduces the possibility of corrosion. . A small hole in the lug allows air to escape when soldering. Lugs were soldered on years ago for connection to bus-bars etc. It is not a good idea to solder on fine stranded wires as they can break due to any vibration in vehicles or vibrating machines though.


    The problem with getting a good reliable crimped connector is that it is just so easy to get it wrong. Limited space work, wrong tools, wrong pressure on the connector, hidden faults etc.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eedrETFZ3Ws


    Z.

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