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Main fuse or use meter switch, or other thoughts

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hello, I am wiring a sub main to my detached garage. I am doing this under a Building Notice with a Building Control appointed inspection through an approved contractor company. The approved company provide the inspection and test, but are not there to provide advice.  Hence, would appreciate your thoughts. I have been looking at how I will connect my sub main to the supply. I currently have a DNO box containing the incoming feed, main fuse and a meter. This is within an open to air porch. The tails from the meter pass directly to a second box below with a 100amp Proteus DP breaker. The two boxes are butted up together. The output from the breaker goes into 25mm2 SWA that then progresses to the main house consumer unit elsewhere. My original plan was to take the output from the breaker, split it with Henley blocks, then feed a second breaker feeding the new sub main. However, there simply is not the room within the box to do this. The best solution would be for a larger box beneath the DNO box. To do that requires power off. I have two choices for that, pull the main fuse or use a single pole isolator that is built into the meter (Ampy 5258K). 

I could request the DNO pull the main fuse ( would they do that for someone doing it DIY under a Building Notice?). However, I like to take my time on this sort of thing and do not want a short time slot to get it all done. I do not want to pull the main fuse myself and appreciate that I am not allowed to. That leaves me with the built in isolator? would you do this using that? whats the risk?
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Chris - Thank you for your advice. I was avoiding doing anything on the DNO supplied board as I was under the understanding that it was not mine to use. If I can split there that possibly makes things easier. If I do do that, I will need a new hole in DNO box to take second pair of tails out. Would you put a hole in it?


    Colin - like the look of that, however, having trouble understanding how it is wired. Is it a single pair of tails from meter to a 100A and 40A output? if so that would make a very neat solution.
  • Chris Pearson:


    (Incidentally, odd that the installer has chosen to strip back the outer sheath in order to identify the cables!)


    With one of those meters I would assume poor workmanship on the part of the installation electrician rather than the metering services guy, as it is normally the installation electrician’s job to connect the tails into the meter and turn the isolator on.


    An easily rectifiable code 2 fault that should not be left as it is if you want the job signed off for Building Control, that can be done whilst the new double main switch is installed upfront of the Henly junction block that will split the tails.


     Andy Betteridge 


  • AFAIK, nobody makes a 2-way switch fuse.



    I had a similar problem and ended up putting a switch disconnector and a couple of 58x22 DIN rail fuse carrier in a modular enclosure (and luckily my Building Control sponsored electrician thought it a neat solution and didn't object) - but that sort of approach is getting ever harder to do legitimately the way the standards are.


    We really should try to persuade a manufacturer or two to take a look at the "Concept" CU idea..... I'm sure there must be a market there.


       - Andy.
  • Here is the inside of my switch fuse. The carrier at the top marked "Simplex" is the one which used to supply the outbuildings.


    On reflection, I don't think that this would be a suitable solution for a dwelling because an ordinary person (as opposed to a skilled one) wouldn't be expected to open up such a device.

    f4ad4902b094c69441ded4919f8c9164-original-20200618switchfuse.jpg