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Boiler issues

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
We have a Potterton Combi boiler, it was losing pressure. Engineer replaced the diverter valve and said it was corroded. It worked fine for a few days before making a loud banging noise for s few minutes which stopped when the sink taps were on. It was ok for a couple of days and then went off completely. The engineer says the circuit board needs replacing but I'm wondering what caused the issue with the circuit board & whether it will just blow again. I think the boiler is about 8 years old. Any advice welcome.
  • 0
    In my experience losing pressure is usually an indication of either a leak, a failed expansion vessel or a worn/dirty seat on the pressure relief valve. Monitoring the pipe from the PRV can suggest which - continuous drips would be a dodgy PRV, occasional bursts of water more likely a dodgy expansion vessel. Often the expansion vessels have just lost pressure - pumping them up with a bicycle or hand car-tyre pump can sometimes be a solution.

       - Andy.
  • 0
    One other place for a pressure loss problem is that some boilers, such as our Worcester Bosch, has a automatic air-bleed valve out of sight within the sealed section of boiler. 

    Clive
  • 0
    I think not really a wiring issue, but I must admit that a PCB in my boiler at home failed after I had replaced the pump. Had I upset it, or was it purely coincidence?


    Frankly, given the flimsiness of modern appliances, at 8 years, the best option may be to replace the entire boiler.
  • 0
    After eight years it’s halfway through its life.
  • 0
    Sparkingchip:

    After eight years it’s halfway through its life. 


    Depends on how much use it's had.


    regards... Tom


  • 0
    Chris Pearson:

    I think not really a wiring issue, but I must admit that a PCB in my boiler at home failed after I had replaced the pump. Had I upset it, or was it purely coincidence?


    Frankly, given the flimsiness of modern appliances, at 8 years, the best option may be to replace the entire boiler.


    Combi boilers should last 15 years'.


    regards... Tom 


  • 0
    Tomgunn:
    Chris Pearson:

    I think not really a wiring issue, but I must admit that a PCB in my boiler at home failed after I had replaced the pump. Had I upset it, or was it purely coincidence?


    Frankly, given the flimsiness of modern appliances, at 8 years, the best option may be to replace the entire boiler.


    Combi boilers should last 15 years'.


    regards... Tom 




    An old school friend of mine who refuses to modernise, has a Netaheat (spelling?)  boiler dating back to the 1970s. It still works well, but will not be very efficient. It is easy and cheap to repair though, being very basic in construction. I believe that it needed a new fan and motor and once a new circuit board, parts which were still available 10 years ago.


    Z.


  • 0
    Zoomup:
    Tomgunn:
    Chris Pearson:

    I think not really a wiring issue, but I must admit that a PCB in my boiler at home failed after I had replaced the pump. Had I upset it, or was it purely coincidence?


    Frankly, given the flimsiness of modern appliances, at 8 years, the best option may be to replace the entire boiler.


    Combi boilers should last 15 years'.


    regards... Tom 




    An old school friend of mine who refuses to modernise, has a Netaheat (spelling?)  boiler dating back to the 1970s. It still works well, but will not be very efficient. It is easy and cheap to repair though, being very basic in construction. I believe that it needed a new fan and motor and once a new circuit board, parts which were still available 10 years ago.


    Z.




    Hello Zoom... 


    My second boiler lasted 20 years'. It started to stop working BUT, I found the fault... the fan was sticking SO, when it stopped working I used to use a long screwdriver to flick, haha, (I KNOW), the fan and it would start working again BUT... best to change it PLUS the new combi, (I did the upstairs plumbing alterations and the gas-safe chap did the downstairs items), is around 98% efficient so, the new combi will pay for itself, in about 50 years' time!! Win Win!! 


    regards.... Tom




     


  • 0
    Tomgunn:
    Zoomup:
    Tomgunn:
    Chris Pearson:

    I think not really a wiring issue, but I must admit that a PCB in my boiler at home failed after I had replaced the pump. Had I upset it, or was it purely coincidence?


    Frankly, given the flimsiness of modern appliances, at 8 years, the best option may be to replace the entire boiler.


    Combi boilers should last 15 years'.


    regards... Tom 




    An old school friend of mine who refuses to modernise, has a Netaheat (spelling?)  boiler dating back to the 1970s. It still works well, but will not be very efficient. It is easy and cheap to repair though, being very basic in construction. I believe that it needed a new fan and motor and once a new circuit board, parts which were still available 10 years ago.


    Z.




    Hello Zoom... 


    My second boiler lasted 20 years'. It started to stop working BUT, I found the fault... the fan was sticking SO, when it stopped working I used to use a long screwdriver to flick, haha, (I KNOW), the fan and it would start working again BUT... best to change it PLUS the new combi, (I did the upstairs plumbing alterations and the gas-safe chap did the downstairs items), is around 98% efficient so, the new combi will pay for itself, in about 50 years' time!! Win Win!! 


    regards.... Tom




     




    Yes indeed, I believe that some boilers need to sense an air flow. A pressure switch is included in the circuit. Back to my old pet subject. LUBRICATION. If we clean the electric fans and lubricate the motor bearings they will last for many years. If we don't they can clog up with dust and the bearings get dry, then wear occurs or the motors can seize up.


    Although accessing a gas boiler may be restricted to us due to regulations now.


    Maintenance is not popular nowadays in this throwaway era. A good oil for this job is a fully synthetic lightweight motor oil as used in car engines, like a 5W-X. This advice also applies to extractor fans.


    Z.


  • 0
    I'd be slightly wary of lubricating a boiler fan - these day's they're often located in the 'outgoing' side of the airway (so that the boiler operates at below atmospheric pressure, so any leaks in the seals mean air from the room leaks in rather than fumes leaking out into the room) - but that means they're in the full exhaust - so likely very high temperatures to deal with (even modern boilers aren't always in condensing mode) as well as chemical attack from NOx and other products of combustion.

       - Andy.

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