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Boiler issues

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
We have a Potterton Combi boiler, it was losing pressure. Engineer replaced the diverter valve and said it was corroded. It worked fine for a few days before making a loud banging noise for s few minutes which stopped when the sink taps were on. It was ok for a couple of days and then went off completely. The engineer says the circuit board needs replacing but I'm wondering what caused the issue with the circuit board & whether it will just blow again. I think the boiler is about 8 years old. Any advice welcome.
  • Did you have to open a gasway or part of the flue system to do it ?

    If not then you are not working on the gas system, any more than if you change the hall thermostat or the heating pump.

    For the avoidance of doubt, if there is a paper trail your receipts ought to be clear on that.

    If not working for hire or reward you only need to be competent for the task at hand, no memberships required. HSE are generally not interested in stuff that just happens not in the way of business , so long as it is being done correctly. However, having a suitably qualified friend on speed dial may be advised if it goes a bit wrong.


    Chris for your own use, try Beermingum Ingiooring Surploys   - or at least I think she said something like that on the phone when I called in my last order for a gas hose for a camping stove, there is a slight language barrier but they are very good..


    Mike,
  • mapj1:

    Chris for your own use, try Beermingum Ingiooring Surploys   - or at least I think she said something like that on the phone when I called in my last order for a gas hose for a camping stove, there is a slight language barrier but they are very good..


    In fairness, I don't see how you could change a thermocouple without withdrawing the burners, but no harm in hoovering them out once in a while. I am getting to the stage of life where a bit more asbestos has not got time to do any harm.


    Any road, it wasn't a problem - I just popped across the road to City Plumbing where I bought three. ?


    The local Pirtek chap is very good for hoses and any type of fitting you can think of.


  • The maker's tech. dept. told me how to do it by phone. No questions about if I  was a trader or not. The key to do the job is stored in an easily droppable hinged tray under the boiler for easy user operation. No covers removed. No flue tampered with. No gas pipes touched at all.


    Edit. Add video showing key.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUsBw1ZpiKY


    Z.
  • Zoomup:

    I was called to a gas boiler today. The home owner's parents are house siting and don't want the pipes to freeze up. The gas boiler was not working and the parents though that the house had an electrical fault. When I arrived I saw that the pressure gauge on the boiler was indicating low. Not being familiar with the make and model I could not find a filling loop. I went to the local plumbing shop and was told that I could not touch the boiler as I was not a Gas Safe registered person. I explained the position and said that I was only touching the plumbing and not the gas. Anyway, after talking to the maker's tech. dept. bloke I was told hoe to re-pressurise the system. It involves a silly plastic key system situated under the boiler.


    Do I really have to be Gas Safe registered to re-pressurise an unvented boiler? It is only like pumping up a car tyre. And yes, I do know not to over pressurise the system as the pressure increases with temperature.


    Z.


    Hello Zoom,


    It's a horrible way to top up the water, in that boiler!! I have done this several times and you need to force a plastic tool, under the boiler, and it has always spilt some water out, when I've done this.


    You don't need to be a gas-safe engineer to do this as it's not within the boiler!


    Furthermore... you'll need to find why the pressure has dropped! Check all the valves, on the radiators'. 


    The inside of the boiler has a 'bladder' that expands, and contracts, etc... hope it isn't that!


    Good luck! 


    Tom

     


  • I am beginning to think that we all died when younger because many of these regulations are fairly recent. You may do whatever you like with your own gas, water, electricity, etc as I am sure you all know. For reward, you may need a few certificates, which we do not seem to have for electricians. I wonder how many would see this as a good thing if it was illegal not to have a piece of paper for you, personally, not the company, employer, but you. I am interested to know.

    Obviously, the filling loop pressurisation is a user bit of maintenance, otherwise many systems would have the "Gas Safe" man once a month. It's in the user manual with the gauge on the user display!
  • Tomgunn:
    Zoomup:

    I was called to a gas boiler today. The home owner's parents are house siting and don't want the pipes to freeze up. The gas boiler was not working and the parents though that the house had an electrical fault. When I arrived I saw that the pressure gauge on the boiler was indicating low. Not being familiar with the make and model I could not find a filling loop. I went to the local plumbing shop and was told that I could not touch the boiler as I was not a Gas Safe registered person. I explained the position and said that I was only touching the plumbing and not the gas. Anyway, after talking to the maker's tech. dept. bloke I was told hoe to re-pressurise the system. It involves a silly plastic key system situated under the boiler.


    Do I really have to be Gas Safe registered to re-pressurise an unvented boiler? It is only like pumping up a car tyre. And yes, I do know not to over pressurise the system as the pressure increases with temperature.


    Z.


    Hello Zoom,


    It's a horrible way to top up the water, in that boiler!! I have done this several times and you need to force a plastic tool, under the boiler, and it has always spilt some water out, when I've done this.


    You don't need to be a gas-safe engineer to do this as it's not within the boiler!


    Furthermore... you'll need to find why the pressure has dropped! Check all the valves, on the radiators'. 


    The inside of the boiler has a 'bladder' that expands, and contracts, etc... hope it isn't that!


    Good luck! 


    Tom

     




    According to the makers, occasional  re-pressurisation will be required even if the system is good.

    My guess is that the key system is to prevent contamination of the drinking water in case of backflow of water into the mains water supply. When the key is withdrawn, as required after use, the boiler system can not contaminate the mains water supply if the mains pressure falls.


    Z.


  • Zoomup:
    Tomgunn:
    Zoomup:

    I was called to a gas boiler today. The home owner's parents are house siting and don't want the pipes to freeze up. The gas boiler was not working and the parents though that the house had an electrical fault. When I arrived I saw that the pressure gauge on the boiler was indicating low. Not being familiar with the make and model I could not find a filling loop. I went to the local plumbing shop and was told that I could not touch the boiler as I was not a Gas Safe registered person. I explained the position and said that I was only touching the plumbing and not the gas. Anyway, after talking to the maker's tech. dept. bloke I was told hoe to re-pressurise the system. It involves a silly plastic key system situated under the boiler.


    Do I really have to be Gas Safe registered to re-pressurise an unvented boiler? It is only like pumping up a car tyre. And yes, I do know not to over pressurise the system as the pressure increases with temperature.


    Z.


    Hello Zoom,


    It's a horrible way to top up the water, in that boiler!! I have done this several times and you need to force a plastic tool, under the boiler, and it has always spilt some water out, when I've done this.


    You don't need to be a gas-safe engineer to do this as it's not within the boiler!


    Furthermore... you'll need to find why the pressure has dropped! Check all the valves, on the radiators'. 


    The inside of the boiler has a 'bladder' that expands, and contracts, etc... hope it isn't that!


    Good luck! 


    Tom

     




    According to the makers, occasional  re-pressurisation will be required even if the system is good.

    My guess is that the key system is to prevent contamination of the drinking water in case of backflow of water into the mains water supply. When the key is withdrawn, as required after use, the boiler system can not contaminate the mains water supply if the mains pressure falls.


    Z.




    I've had my boiler now for 6 plus years'... never looses pressure.


    The pressure, of the mains water. wouldn't allow contamination plus fitting 'non-return' valves would ensure that this never happens!


    A little tip, for those who are having a combi boiler fitted... if you have a shower mixer valve then install a 'non-return' valve, to both the hot, and cold pipes, feeding the valve and this way the valve will work perfectly!


    Tom


  • Tomgunn:
    Zoomup:
    Tomgunn:
    Zoomup:

    I was called to a gas boiler today. The home owner's parents are house siting and don't want the pipes to freeze up. The gas boiler was not working and the parents though that the house had an electrical fault. When I arrived I saw that the pressure gauge on the boiler was indicating low. Not being familiar with the make and model I could not find a filling loop. I went to the local plumbing shop and was told that I could not touch the boiler as I was not a Gas Safe registered person. I explained the position and said that I was only touching the plumbing and not the gas. Anyway, after talking to the maker's tech. dept. bloke I was told hoe to re-pressurise the system. It involves a silly plastic key system situated under the boiler.


    Do I really have to be Gas Safe registered to re-pressurise an unvented boiler? It is only like pumping up a car tyre. And yes, I do know not to over pressurise the system as the pressure increases with temperature.


    Z.


    Hello Zoom,


    It's a horrible way to top up the water, in that boiler!! I have done this several times and you need to force a plastic tool, under the boiler, and it has always spilt some water out, when I've done this.


    You don't need to be a gas-safe engineer to do this as it's not within the boiler!


    Furthermore... you'll need to find why the pressure has dropped! Check all the valves, on the radiators'. 


    The inside of the boiler has a 'bladder' that expands, and contracts, etc... hope it isn't that!


    Good luck! 


    Tom

     




    According to the makers, occasional  re-pressurisation will be required even if the system is good.

    My guess is that the key system is to prevent contamination of the drinking water in case of backflow of water into the mains water supply. When the key is withdrawn, as required after use, the boiler system can not contaminate the mains water supply if the mains pressure falls.


    Z.







    The pressure, of the mains water. wouldn't allow contamination plus fitting 'non-return' valves would ensure that this never happens!


     




    If the mains' water pressure failed, due to a fault, then contaminated water could be drawn back into  mains water pipes only to reappear in drinking water later on. This could cause illness.


    I once had to install an electrical shower in a mortuary, for certain people whose custom it was to wash their loved ones' bodies before burial.  We fitted a non return valve in the water supply because the shower hose was very long and could be dropped onto the floor where it could pick up all sorts of germs.


    I believe that is why shower manufacturers have the hose restricting trays on domestic showers, to limit the reach of the shower head and not to allow it to fall into the shower tray. Again to prevent back flow of contaminated water into the water supply pipes in case of  a pumping failure.


    Where the water supply is taken from a rising main, the feed to the shower must include a non-return valve to prevent any water flowing back into the mains under fault condition - it is also a good idea to include an isolating valve just before the shower unit so that it can be isolated if necessary.


    Z.


  • The water regs define a whole list of possible contaminants and corresponding precautions against backflow - often a simple (single) non-return valve wouldn't be considered adequate (as they can fail) - often double-check values are specified, or for the nastier contaminants even more reliable methods such as a physical air-gap (e.g. taken from a cistern where the inlet valve is above any possible water level) is demanded.

      - Andy.