BIG BIG Range Cooker.

Chris Pearson:

It's a bit like yer 500-odd bhp Range Rover. When can you actually use all of it? ?

It allows you to spin your wheels really loudly once the 4WD facility has given you the confidence to drive further along a muddy or icy lane than you ever would have dared with 2WD, before getting stuck.

Weirdbeard:

Zoomup:

I wired up a big range cooker today in a new house. 14kW ish. A 32 Amp 6.0mm2 circuit. Final meter of T&E in 4.0mm2. The big worry is that we could not find a cooker switch on the wall anywhere, just the cooker connection plate. Perhaps not needed by the Regs. nowadays, but nice to turn off when cleaning the cooker, servicing it or in case of emergency, or last thing at night to stop children fiddling.


I warned the owner that it is not a good idea to turn on all ovens and hobs at once.


 

Hi please could you give a link to the instructions for the cooker?


I usually do an “all on” functional test, to make sure everything clicks on and off as it should, and many electric cooker instructions suggest running all ovens for an hour at 200C before cooking food to burn off the oils etc that are used in the manufacturing process, though it wouldn’t apply to induction or glass halogen hobs.


Knowing how a cooker actually works does seem remarkably lacking in most topics on installing electric cookers!


 

No can do.  The cooker was supplied by the customer. I left the paperwork at his house. I did though advise the owner that he should burn off all protective grease from any heating elements with the kitchen doors and windows open and the extractor fan on.



Edit, add. The cooker could be wired for more than one phase. The terminals were L1. L2, L3, (linked out for 240 Volts) N1, N2  (linked) and E. So in some countries more than one phase is required.


Z.

Edit, add. The cooker could be wired for more than one phase. The terminals were L1. L2, L3, (linked out for 240 Volts) N1, N2  (linked) and E. So in some countries more than one phase is required.

Z.

This arrangement is quite common. I have it on a Belling Classic Double Eighty four-ring two-oven cooker made in 1972 (and still in daily use!). It was done to facilitate exports to Europe, where 220V delta connected supplies to domestic premises (no neutral) were and still are common. Typically the appliances and power points were diivided between phases to get some kind of rough balance,

ebee:

For a long time I have never favoured the Cooker Control Unit with a 13A socket outlet. Just a plain switch to isolate for safety and convenience.

A socket for few uses of a kettle does not worry me but when used for a washing m/c or tumble dryer as I see often then I don`t like.

Also many homes with at least the cooker circuit being non RCD still in use and it is by no means unknown for the cooker socket to be used on an outdoors extension lead.

And..................a cooker control unit with a 13 Amp. socket included encourages the trailing of flexes over the cooker in some cases. Flexes flambeau anyone?


Z.

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And..................a cooker control unit with a 13 Amp. socket included encourages the trailing of flexes over the cooker in some cases. Flexes flambeau anyone?

Copper flexes sitting on an induction hob shouldn't be a problem. ?

Chris Pearson:

Zoomup:

And..................a cooker control unit with a 13 Amp. socket included encourages the trailing of flexes over the cooker in some cases. Flexes flambeau anyone?

Copper flexes sitting on an induction hob shouldn't be a problem. ?

Yeh, but they get in the way of those awkward pots and pans.


Z.