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Small Shower Room Ventilation.

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I was talking to a developer this morning. His son is a sparks. The two have installed a new 4 inch ceiling fan in a small upstairs shower room that has no windows. The building roof has been renewed recently and new breathable "felt" installed under the tiles. I had previously mentioned that the roofers could install a new roof vent for the fan ducting, but nothing has been done about this.


The developer says that the son advises terminating the air duct in the loft onto a bucket to catch moisture, which I said was not acceptable.


Bearing in mind that the new roofing "felt" (membrane) is breathable, is there any reason these days not to terminate the air duct directly into the loft space with no external grille?


Z.
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    Yes, for a tumble the instructions say you must rinse it out after each use, and re-prime it with cold water before use, it is not really the right thing in a bathroom.

    I bet loads  of folk do not clean them out, and they end up with a load of mouldy fluff and damp air in the house. A hole and some 4 inch pipe is far less likely to go wrong and give you long term heath issues ( NHS page on nasty things damp and mould can do to you. )

    Mike.
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    My mother had an old warm air gas heater in her kitchen which warmed the whole house. It needed air from the room to burn properly. The single glazed wooden framed kitchen windows has two metal trickle vents installed above them. They had anti insect gauze inside them. A gas fitter that we called once to service the heater said that he could not recommend the ventilators because people put rolled up newspapers into them to prevent draughts. We promised not to, and he was a bit happier. But in very cold weather we just blocked up one of the two to prevent cold draughts. I think that fresh air leaked in via the extractor fan which ran through the wall.


    Z.
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    Sparkingchip:

    Having core drill a 4” hole through the wall and having installed the fan the bathroom fitter asked why I don’t use a “box” like the other electricians.

    https://www.toolstation.com/tumble-dryer-condensing-kit/p65417


    Snake oil!


    I don't know how much water might be in a full tumble drier, but I assume that it could be of the order of hundreds of ml. Does it fit in the box?


    How does the water condense? Is the box cooled?


    AFAIK, in a condensing tumble drier, the outgoing warm moist air passes through a heat exchanger so that the incoming air is heated somewhat. At the same time, the cool incoming air causes the water vapour to condense after which it is either pumped into a reservoir, or expelled down a drain. The benefit is twofold: first, less electricity is used; second, the room does not overheat.


    This kit strikes me as being about as useless as those freestanding air conditioners which allegedly remove the heat from the air by turning it into water.


    ETA: the "best" modern tumble driers use heat pumps to heat the incoming air. I gather that they take ages and ages to dry the clothes.


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    The developer says that the son advises terminating the air duct in the loft onto a bucket to catch moisture, which I said was not acceptable.

    I agree - doesn't part F of the building regs have something to say on that?

       - Andy.
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    How is the Aga heated?
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    Sparkingchip: 
    How is the Aga heated?

     

    Oil, gas, solid fuel or electric?

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    Sparkingchip: 
    How is the Aga heated?

    The fuel is oil.

     

    Z.

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    I have a very good condensing tumble drier, so the water is returned to me in a tank. It is usually about 2 litres per load from a 1200 RPM spin washing machine, which feels pretty dry to the touch.  A quick wash and 800 spin and it is more like 3 litres, certainly a lot more than freely vented driers suggest.

    I have a friend who has a new “fancy” flat with a wash and dry machine that room vents the air. He has a serious problem with black mould and condensation and is buying a dehumidifier to solve the problem. 

    Venting to the roofspace is probably a bad idea!

     

    The heat pump is not more than the tumble drier with an internal dehumidifier, eh Chris?

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    The reply box has changed again!!!

    These fueled appliances without inlet air vents are not permitted by the BR, and probably will not cause poisoning, but will not work properly if there is no airflow through the fuel and up the chimney. Burning fuel without enough air does not cause too much CO generation as the temperature rapidly falls, this is the regulation method on most enclosed stoves, they just burn more slowly. Making Carbon monoxide is not quite as simple as may be imagined, certainly, my stove makes none (as tested by me) except a tiny amount in the flue when well-raigned back.

    I have just had a thought, are the vents missing in order to get a good airtightness test, and a higher class of energy efficiency? All this shows a distinct lack of joined-up thinking by both regulations and policy, as usual! 

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    davezawadi (David Stone): 
    The heat pump is not more than the tumble drier with an internal dehumidifier, eh Chris?

    Not quite. These driers still condense, but instead of heating the air using resistive elements, they do so with a heat pump. The consequence (as I understand it from reviews) is that the drying cycle takes longer, presumably because the drying air is not as hot.

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