This discussion is locked.
You cannot post a reply to this discussion. If you have a question start a new discussion

Wiska boxes with wagos

Evening all

I’ve been a fan of wiska boxes for a while now and have been more commonly using the 407’s which come with the 3 lever 221 wagos and a mounting block included. Whilst I find the wagos great for lighting circuits I find the mounting block a bit fiddly and as such tend not to use them, just tucking the wagos neatly into the box once terminated. My question is, do wagos need to be fastened or suppported on some way inside an adaptable box? 
 

thanks

  • gkenyon: 
     

    mapj1: 
     

     but does not apparently care about the number of other MCBs sweating away  beside it or the size of wire used or how well it is done up.

    I believe those aspects are covered in the product standards, and the manufacturer does declare the loading factors and tightening torques?

     

    I suspect a tongue in cheek comment after a can of beer on a Saturday evening.

  • So, presumably this doesn't pass muster…………

     

  • A nice neat everyday example.

     

  • The last image is particularly impressive.

  • I have listened to P B plumber being interviewed on the radio, his wiring puts most electricians to shame.

  • Sparkingchip: 
     

    I have listened to P B plumber being interviewed on the radio, his wiring puts most electricians to shame.

    Is this the same excellent logical fault finder?

  • welding the tips of the twisted cores is a very Russian/Soviet block thing to do . It does make for an incredibly solid joint, and circuit remains connected even if the fitting is removed,  but it tends to fracture where the softer copper of the core enters the weld, and the process  burns the insulation back  so has to be sleeved. 

    It also makes unpicking for inspection and test all but impossible, but that was never on the agenda in those places. Not the sort of thing you see in the UK. Commonly done with a carbon rod or a motor brush.

    Mike.

  • mapj1: 
     

    welding the tips of the twisted cores is a very Russian/Soviet block thing to do . It does make for an incredibly solid joint, and circuit remains connected even if the fitting is removed,  but it tends to fracture where the softer copper of the core enters the weld, and the process  burns the insulation back  so has to be sleeved. 

    It also makes unpicking for inspection and test all but impossible, but that was never on the agenda in those places. Not the sort of thing you see in the UK. Commonly done with a carbon rod or a motor brush.

    Mike.

    There used to be a local spark who soldered every core together on rings, must have taken him ages to do rewire

  • Soldering is a bit less off-beat, at least it can be un-done non-destructively, but I agree it is not in the average sparky's standard solutions. Those of us who do electronics could probably solder all the cores at a ring end faster than a socket or similar could be fitted, but I do not think anyone would want to.

    I do recall from reading about it, that in some of  the discussion documents that date from  when rings 1st came in in, there was a school of thought that to be safe that the wiring of the ring really should be ensured to be metallically continuous, and clearly to thread up with  an unbroken wire is not possible, so perhaps the soldering was to achieve that unbreakable loop. I don't think the idea survived 1st contact with reality, as the unequal current sharing is not that much of an issue in practice.

    Mike.

     

  • Sparkingchip: 
     

    I have listened to P B plumber being interviewed on the radio, his wiring puts most electricians to shame.

    He certainly appears to be competent and interested in his work.

    Legh