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Wiring advice for small single phase lathe in home workshop

Alan B

I am being asked to wire up a small single phase lathe in a home workshop.

I will be using an NVR switch for start and stop, with a 0.55kw motor looks like I should have overload protection as well (552.1.2)

The customer has an old forward/reverse switch, my guess is 30 years old with metal case , but looks in good condition. My specific concern is that the switch has a leaver to rotate it and a center off position, it could easily be used to switch the motor off and then knocked on.The customer is quite safety conscious so fairly unlikely to happen, but I am wondering if this is normal or is there an alternative arrangement used? Just realised I my have to change the switch anyway as it's not ip rated, but still not sure what to use.

Tried to attach some pictures but cant work out how to do it? 

  • 0 in reply to gkenyon

    A BS EN 60309-2 (Classified to clause 6.1.5 of BS EN 60309-1) socket and plug would be safe.

    "The requirements for socket outlets have been redrafted to prevent the socket contacts being live when accessible. Regulation 708.55.1.1 requires that every socket-outlet or connector shall either comply with: a) BS EN 60309-2 and shall be interlocked and classified to clause 6.1.5 of BS EN 60309-1:1999 to prevent the socket contacts being live when accessible;"

    Z.

  • 0 in reply to Zoomup

    not so easy to arrange on the tail end of an extension lead to a caravan or similar to an inlet box on fixed equipment.


    Either the standard sockets need shutters like BS1363 or we have to assume that like the bayonet lamp holder it is not as much of a risk in practice as we thought.
    I must admit that backed by RCD I'd not be worried even in a domestic setting - I have to say that, as I have quite a few single and 3 phase leads with outlets like this myself..
    Mike

  • 0 in reply to mapj1

    Yeh but a fixed flex from the lathe or wall starter to a plug would be safe. No extension lead necessary.

    Z.

  • 0 in reply to Zoomup
    Zoomup said:
    The requirements for socket outlets have been redrafted to prevent the socket contacts being live when accessible. Regulation 708.55.1.1

    Slightly different, as non-household.

    Which manufacturer is that outlet?

    Scratch that, Gewiss GW 66004 and GW66015 for 16 A and 32 A versions. Gewiss also do the non-isolated type.

    I've yet to come across one so clearly marked with the isolation symbol as that one seems to be, so looks good to me, and glad they're starting to come through now!

  • 0 in reply to mapj1
    mapj1 said:
    not so easy to arrange on the tail end of an extension lead to a caravan or similar to an inlet box on fixed equipment.

    Agreed, but you can also buy a BS 1363-1 plug to BS EN 60309-2 16 A outlet 'adaptor' to plug in your caravan or motorhome at home.

  • 0 in reply to gkenyon

    I believe the symbol is present on the front of some, but possibly not all, 'ILME' SQE-series interlocked socket-outlets we have in the workshop. It is not visible on the first few example images of this product that I found online just now.

  • 0 in reply to Lucien Nunes
    Lucien Nunes said:
    It is not visible on the first few example images of this product that I found online just now.

    Agreed - from someone's post above, I noted that Gewiss now have a range that are marked for isolation (although also apparently a range that are not - so not all Gewiss are isolation switches).

  • 0 in reply to mapj1

    And I thought my 1939 belt driven lathe was old! You've beaten me Mike. I did finally get around to fitting an emergency stop button over lockdown ('elf and safety gone mad...)

  • 0 in reply to wallywombat

    I don't own a lathe, but worked on lathes for most of the 90s.........in a school workshop and after school in an area that's never heard of health and safety. (Chuck key left in? Learn the hard way.........what guards? If anything got caught in the lathe, it'll rip something off, so don't do it. Sort of 3m or 4m long, ground to chest high type lathes mostly - so not HUGE - 3 and 4 jaw chucks. All manually operated except for some gears for long runs of turning down and screw threads, when we could engage a gear to cut the threads.) internal and external tapers, collars, and different types of metal, but usually mild steel. Maybe its a pre-requisite for ending up as an electrician? I did a bit in woodwork (O'Levels) metalwork (O' Levels), and plumbing type trades (DIY Really), became a farmer (and half *** mechanic) and eventually stuck with electrics. 

  • 0 in reply to gkenyon

    Can somebody turn me some ends for corroded  power steering cooling pipes on a vehicle?

    They are similar to the fittings on the end of brake pipes but are an unusual size/thread.

    Z.

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