Hi tonydon. You should check the data sheet of the light to make sure it is compatible with your workshop lathe. The light should match your personal style and needs. You should also look for a light that reduces visual problems, such as glare, shadows, reflections, and improves visual quality, such as brightness, contrast, and color accuracy. A flexible task light that lets you change its height and angle is a good choice. According to the data sheet, the light has a colour temperature of 4000K, which is a cool white light. It also has a high colour rendering index (CRI) of 80, which means it can show the colours of your workpiece accurately.

I thought the phenomena was more to do with lights on different phases in the same area? I wouldn't have thought single phase would be noticeable.

any one light is dimmest at the zero-crossing of the sinewave current of the phase it is on.

Before electronic ballasts and large enough capacitors to hold up the volts over the gap existed, the old school fix was florry lights that had two tubes on different phases, or if only 1 phase supply available then an L-C phase shift network to delay the waveform to one lamp, and not the other. In effect creating another phase locally -rather like the capacitor start for a 1 phase motor.

Indeed special "workshop fittings" were made with this extra phase shift ballast arrangement.

The aim is to ensure that the light level is not varying periodically, or at least not by so much as to matter and give the film wagon wheels going backwards illusion.

Mike.

Many Thanks to everyone who replied.....

the internal circuity drives the LEDs with direct current

That's almost re-opening a very old debate about "direct current" vs "continuous current". Continuous current being steady in magnitude as well as not reversing in polarity, whereas the label direct current only tells you it doesn't reverse polarity - it may well vary in magnitude, or even switch on/off very rapidly.

I too have noticed stroboscopic effects with some LED lights - I've a feeling some tend to regulate the power by rapidly switching (switch mode PSU style) - wider or more frequent pulses to increase the overall power - I guess with electronics it's a lot easier to switch on/off than it is to try to create a steady regulated current without generating a lot of heat - and the cheaper brands don't seem to try to smooth the result - just let the LED and the persistence of the human eye do the averaging.

   - Andy.

It is also worth looking at the IK rating.  (impact protection ratings)