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You can get a handle on some products just from looking at a photo. Others, not so much. This Italian kitchen appliance looks like a retro food mixer – and comes in some beautiful colours, including a Barbiecore pink that’s very summer 2023 – but first impressions are wrong. It has just one purpose: making small, fancy ice creams.

It’s designed to make a single serving of gelato super-fast, from ready-made mix, which you buy in single portions. These 80ml TooABriks of gelato mix cost £3.50 for a pack of two, at the time of writing. They’re long life, in a Tetra Pak, and small: smaller than a juice box.

It only takes five minutes to make a gelato, with app control. But you can only make one portion at a time, evoking the ‘single-serving friend’ in 'Fight Club'. It’s OK for one person or a couple, but forget serving up gelato at dinner parties.

We put the new-to-the-UK TooA Milano to the test, with a selection of TooABriks. Setup is simple. The...