530kW motor checks? !!

First I must say this is off the end of my experience, so what follows is general thoughts only.


Mechanical  Damage to mountings or distortion to the frame would be pretty final. Make sure they take care with the unbolting and lifting.

Bearing condition - on a smaller unit I'd ask if it can be turned - I imagine that is not so easy to try on a unit this size. resist the temptation to pull it round by an impellar blade which may snap at the root. slightly oily bearings are good,dry is bad, as is rusty....


Electrically you do not have the 11kV supply,  (and you'd need a transformer the size of a small substation to step it up from 3 phase 230V/400, and then a real small substation to supply it.... ) but a check for winding continuity and insulation resistance to the frame would be a good start A hand held tester on the 1kV range is not the makers approved  "proper" test, but is the best you can probably do standing outside in the rain... Failing insulation could indicate loss of the windings.


If the starting gear is available and not a huge extra cost to acquire it may be sensible to do so, even if it only provides a design for something that can be duplicated. Again, insulation tests and continuity. The exception might be if it contains asbestos or some other nasty chemicals best left to others to sort out, though the 2002 nameplate suggests it is not so old.


Take great care with the capacitor cabinet - there should be some means of bleeding the caps to a safe voltage but if they have been disconnected without too much thought this may not be operating as it should.  When testing caps for insulation, make arrangements for them to be discharged through some current limiting resistance, NOT BY SHORT CIRCUIT - large caps will vapourise the shorting stick, and may baste you in hot metal while doing so, and it is not so good for the capacitors either.

. Even a test at the 1kV upper limit of a typical hand held tester will allow you to identify total failures,  but if the caps are then left charged to 1kV, they will hold a potentially lethal charge, and should be brought down in a controlled way. I have used heater elements as resistors for this in the past. I'm sure it is possible to hire something more professional and expensive.

M.

First I must say this is off the end of my experience, so what follows is general thoughts only.


Mechanical  Damage to mountings or distortion to the frame would be pretty final. Make sure they take care with the unbolting and lifting.

Bearing condition - on a smaller unit I'd ask if it can be turned - I imagine that is not so easy to try on a unit this size. resist the temptation to pull it round by an impellar blade which may snap at the root. slightly oily bearings are good,dry is bad, as is rusty....


Electrically you do not have the 11kV supply,  (and you'd need a transformer the size of a small substation to step it up from 3 phase 230V/400, and then a real small substation to supply it.... ) but a check for winding continuity and insulation resistance to the frame would be a good start A hand held tester on the 1kV range is not the makers approved  "proper" test, but is the best you can probably do standing outside in the rain... Failing insulation could indicate loss of the windings.


If the starting gear is available and not a huge extra cost to acquire it may be sensible to do so, even if it only provides a design for something that can be duplicated. Again, insulation tests and continuity. The exception might be if it contains asbestos or some other nasty chemicals best left to others to sort out, though the 2002 nameplate suggests it is not so old.


Take great care with the capacitor cabinet - there should be some means of bleeding the caps to a safe voltage but if they have been disconnected without too much thought this may not be operating as it should.  When testing caps for insulation, make arrangements for them to be discharged through some current limiting resistance, NOT BY SHORT CIRCUIT - large caps will vapourise the shorting stick, and may baste you in hot metal while doing so, and it is not so good for the capacitors either.

. Even a test at the 1kV upper limit of a typical hand held tester will allow you to identify total failures,  but if the caps are then left charged to 1kV, they will hold a potentially lethal charge, and should be brought down in a controlled way. I have used heater elements as resistors for this in the past. I'm sure it is possible to hire something more professional and expensive.

M.