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Changing the power adapter some guidance on what to select.

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
I received my PC Nailer from the US this morning, however the charger is a 120v US version not dual voltage, and I want to change it.  Was thinking that rather than buying the UK model which would either be the Stanley or Black and Decker then I could just change the power adapter on it.


The rating of the current adapter is 120v 60hz 770ma, output of  20v 1A.


However the UK versions are slightly different for B&D and Stanley they are 
cadc4d5b8de9e1b602f50943981cd410-huge-img_c4561835f81f-1.jpg
US Version
a3a087d1ed79a6870987e2b850f06a88-huge-img_553f85738e3c-1.jpg
UK Version

Was thinking of getting something like - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001159381316.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.45a66bceNzJeIa&algo_pvid=7d9330ae-94ea-4c45-baac-f128cd8e3545&algo_expid=7d9330ae-94ea-4c45-baac-f128cd8e3545-0&btsid=0b0a557216156484926828136e4e91&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_


What be the best to get? is that one ok?
Parents
  • No.

    Well, only in the odd designs that just happen to be that way,

    More generally, not unless you understand the circuit before you. I suspect the transformer ratio is fixed for 110V, and we do not know the primary to secondary insulation quality.  At the top mains comes in, and meets a MOV. This will probably be set to limit at about 130-150V RMS, and will not appreciate 230. Not visible, but perhaps on the back is a rectifier. Then we have two high voltage caps and a common mode choke. (check the voltage rating on the caps)

    It may be a voltage doubling rectifier,  to 300v or so, if so you might be able to substitute  bridge, but it may already be a bridge creating 140VDC or so.

    So the DC rectified mains at either 140V or so,or more like 300, depending, then gets chopped and applied to the transformer.

    There seems to be a single secondary side diode rectifying the chopped waveform and the green low voltage capacitor on the secondary side, and a little ring choke.

    Then there is an optocoupler (black 4 legs) presumably providing feedback to the primary chopping circuit, not visible, to give the regulation.

    as well as unknown stuff on the back, there may be more under the glue.

    The blue caps (left) are required to reduce the switchign spikes breaking onto the output, again they need to be rated to far higher than you need as in effect they connect ipout to output.



    The smaller PCB is probably a charge balancer - this puts a bleed resistor across which ever cell (or cells) charges first, so they are not damaged by over charge and over  voltage while its slower charging mates catch up. It may or may not actually regulate.

    you could look up the data sheets of the chips - googling chip numbers us usually quite informative.

    M.
Reply
  • No.

    Well, only in the odd designs that just happen to be that way,

    More generally, not unless you understand the circuit before you. I suspect the transformer ratio is fixed for 110V, and we do not know the primary to secondary insulation quality.  At the top mains comes in, and meets a MOV. This will probably be set to limit at about 130-150V RMS, and will not appreciate 230. Not visible, but perhaps on the back is a rectifier. Then we have two high voltage caps and a common mode choke. (check the voltage rating on the caps)

    It may be a voltage doubling rectifier,  to 300v or so, if so you might be able to substitute  bridge, but it may already be a bridge creating 140VDC or so.

    So the DC rectified mains at either 140V or so,or more like 300, depending, then gets chopped and applied to the transformer.

    There seems to be a single secondary side diode rectifying the chopped waveform and the green low voltage capacitor on the secondary side, and a little ring choke.

    Then there is an optocoupler (black 4 legs) presumably providing feedback to the primary chopping circuit, not visible, to give the regulation.

    as well as unknown stuff on the back, there may be more under the glue.

    The blue caps (left) are required to reduce the switchign spikes breaking onto the output, again they need to be rated to far higher than you need as in effect they connect ipout to output.



    The smaller PCB is probably a charge balancer - this puts a bleed resistor across which ever cell (or cells) charges first, so they are not damaged by over charge and over  voltage while its slower charging mates catch up. It may or may not actually regulate.

    you could look up the data sheets of the chips - googling chip numbers us usually quite informative.

    M.
Children
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