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LED turn flasher lamps

Former Community Member
Former Community Member

Good day, folks ?
I've just started changing my rear light cluster to LED bulbs (bulbs go in the ground). And the tail/stop is ok, reverse is ok but when I put the turn/flasher lamp in the lamp holder and fit the flasher unit stops flashing and the lamp just stays on. Now from my point of view it may well be that the load is less and therefore the flasher relay cannot charge the capacitor enough to switch the coil but has anyone had this issue or should I just try another LED lamp. BTW, I also use the LED Series Resistor Calculator to identify the value of current limiting series resistor when driving an array of LEDs, I'm not sure if this calculation is appropriate...I'm not an electrician, so there may be errors.

Has anyone a recommendation for an LED that still looks like a lamp and not a unit with lots of flat LED flat cob dots. Any replies will be appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

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    Some of the more expensive electronic flashers go to great trouble to monitor the current to mimic the failure warning modes you got for free with the old designs using a bimetalic heater and strip.

     (The 2 lug ones had heater is in series with the lamps but much higher resistance, so no light, then the bi-metal strip curls and shorts out the heater, and the lamps come on, robbing the heater of power, and then the strip relaxes….) If the lamp load changes, so does the off time, so it flashes very fast or not at all - no good for trailers,. though 

    (The 3 lug ones had the heater in parallel with the lamps and the bimetallic strip cut the supply to lamps and heaters. This sort was less load dependant and turned up on commercial vehicles, tractors etc )

     

    In short you may or may not need to add load in parallel to mimic a real lamp to make it work properly.

    Mike.

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  • 0

    Some of the more expensive electronic flashers go to great trouble to monitor the current to mimic the failure warning modes you got for free with the old designs using a bimetalic heater and strip.

     (The 2 lug ones had heater is in series with the lamps but much higher resistance, so no light, then the bi-metal strip curls and shorts out the heater, and the lamps come on, robbing the heater of power, and then the strip relaxes….) If the lamp load changes, so does the off time, so it flashes very fast or not at all - no good for trailers,. though 

    (The 3 lug ones had the heater in parallel with the lamps and the bimetallic strip cut the supply to lamps and heaters. This sort was less load dependant and turned up on commercial vehicles, tractors etc )

     

    In short you may or may not need to add load in parallel to mimic a real lamp to make it work properly.

    Mike.

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