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Control (Dimming) Options for 12V LEDs on Motorcycle?

As well as an Engineer (admittedly retd), I'm also a motorcyclist. Just decided to try and fit my M/C with some additional lamps so that it shows up better amongst the pretty Christmas trees that are nowadays marketed as four wheeled individual transport. You've probably seen a similar effect on the big chunky crossing-continents style bikes.

(This paragraph is a background rant, skippable) I wanted to achieve something akin to a daylight running light (DRL). However, on looking at what I can buy, there's a problem. It seems aftermarket lamps for motorcycles are generally sold as fog/spot/driving/auxiliary lamps. I mean, the sales blurb claims one lamp is all of those (and more). Which is odd, as the beam pattern (and homologation, where done), of fog and spot lamps is completely different. And indeed regulations limit the use of fog lamps to, err, fog, and I believe the use of spot to with main beam (Although I have also heard that these regs don't actually or entirely apply to M/C - I'm uneasy about that, especially abroad). I think “driving” means same as “spot”, and “auxiliary” means, well, nothing much. In summary, the cheap suppliers were selling snake oil, and the expensive suppliers sold homologated lamps for use in fog or with main beam. Spot type lamps are also especially useless to me, as my bike's LED dipped beam is quite visible over a narrow angle, but very weakly visible off centre, I want a wide spread.

So, I bought two general purpose 10W each, 12V packaged vehicle LEDs, sold as much for off roaders or lighting load areas. A garage test shows a nice wide, unfocussed, spread. I think they will be very visible in the day, over a wide angle, and at night on dark roads (with main beam), will help illuminate around bends.

But, I'm concerned that at night in busier areas, they may be too bright and dazzle other drivers, or cause unwanted aggravation. So, I'm wondering about a dimming arrangement, so I can manually dim them, and, hopefully, override that with the high beam.

I am not assuming they'd behave in a simple linear(ish) fashion like an incandescent bulb, but have nothing else to work on. They might even be smart enough to maintain full output at much lower supply voltage. They might really dislike being fed PWM. I don't want to try to dismantle them to find out (cheapskate only bought 2), as they will really need their weatherproofing. Anyone know what circuitry might be typical in such products?

Thought A was to switch them between normal parallel connection and series, with a switch and mainbeam driving a DPDT relay through diode OR logic. However, it gives no real design choice of how dim - probably too dim, 6V may not be enough to operate (or reliably). And it seems the automotive industry doesn't offer DPDT relays in “outdoor” packaging with spade terminals (only SPDT).

Thought B was to put in a series resistor, shorted by a SPST relay, switched as above. But the resistor would have to be pretty chunky, and get hot, so presents a bit of a packaging problem on a modern M/C, with every crevice rammed with pipes, wires & boxes.

Any guidance or tips'n'tricks on these sort of packaged LED products appreciated?

Parents
  • Thanks Andy. I just tried out a similar PWM module I bought originally for 12V fans. It's from MFA/Como Drills, rated at max 3A continuous (much less than yours!).

    Min 0.3A (one lamp) 0.48A (two in parallel)

    Max 0.38A (one) 0.79A (two, cf 0.64A connected directly).

    I suspect that these current measurements are a bit meaningless, a product of the digital multimeter sampling (perhaps I should use the analog meter for current). At least I hope so, as otherwise it's somehow leaking 150mA at max (with no lamps connected, quiescent current was 10mA).

    The unit did seem to stay cool compared to 15R, which is what one would hope for PWM.

    However, it didn't achieve much dimming (at its dimmest it was a lot brighter than with 15R), and reached its max long before it ran out of knob travel.

    I guess that - as some previous replies - the units work down to quite low voltages, largely as a result of the LED's characteristics, which means the voltage range over which useful dimming occurs is quite small, therefore a bit hard to control, especially thinking about temperature stability etc. PWM should in theory offer a wider range. Clearly I should add a scope to my shopping list, to see what PWM that unit is doing!

    I think my next task is to compare the lamp brightness to my bike's dipped beam. Really, that should have been my starting point. If it's not brighter, to an offensive extent, perhaps I can duck the dimming altogether. If so, apologies for wasting everyone's time. Let's see.

Reply
  • Thanks Andy. I just tried out a similar PWM module I bought originally for 12V fans. It's from MFA/Como Drills, rated at max 3A continuous (much less than yours!).

    Min 0.3A (one lamp) 0.48A (two in parallel)

    Max 0.38A (one) 0.79A (two, cf 0.64A connected directly).

    I suspect that these current measurements are a bit meaningless, a product of the digital multimeter sampling (perhaps I should use the analog meter for current). At least I hope so, as otherwise it's somehow leaking 150mA at max (with no lamps connected, quiescent current was 10mA).

    The unit did seem to stay cool compared to 15R, which is what one would hope for PWM.

    However, it didn't achieve much dimming (at its dimmest it was a lot brighter than with 15R), and reached its max long before it ran out of knob travel.

    I guess that - as some previous replies - the units work down to quite low voltages, largely as a result of the LED's characteristics, which means the voltage range over which useful dimming occurs is quite small, therefore a bit hard to control, especially thinking about temperature stability etc. PWM should in theory offer a wider range. Clearly I should add a scope to my shopping list, to see what PWM that unit is doing!

    I think my next task is to compare the lamp brightness to my bike's dipped beam. Really, that should have been my starting point. If it's not brighter, to an offensive extent, perhaps I can duck the dimming altogether. If so, apologies for wasting everyone's time. Let's see.

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