Rules and Guidelines
Want to participate in the discussions? Please read our Community Rules and Guidelines. Need some help? Visit Support and Answers.

  • Locked Locked
  • Replies 25 replies
  • Subscribers 20 subscribers
  • Views 4378 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Options
You may also be interested in
This discussion has been locked.
You can no longer post new replies to this discussion. If you have a question you can start a new discussion

I don't have a lathe . . .

Grumpy

. . but I do have an ancient compact tractor!

The power steering ram is connected to the steering arm with the usual ball coupling but with a straight M12 bolt rather than the tapered bolt that you generally find on track rod ends.

Unfortunately the M12 hole in the steering arm has become ovalled causing excessive play.

The steering arm is part of the casting for the front hub and 4WD system and cannot be removed so any repair will have to be in situ.

My first thoughts were to try and drill out and then ream the oval to 18mm and insert a new 12mm id bush but I was wondering if the collective brains on here had a better solution.

Thanks. G

Parents

  • how badly oval ? Is there any merit in a taper ream to take a more readily available ball-joint from another machine ? (harder to get a taper wrong than a parallel ream as well ) Why is it oval - has it been running for a while half undone ? I have been known to 'fix' that sort of thing in the field with a quick tack weld that can be cut off later when mission is over and things return to base.  (and to fill in gaps with a coating of braze metal and then recreate the original diameter, but not for an in-situ repair.)

    As you note the correct final solution is to drill out larger (but it may be quite hard to get perfectly square in situ) and to fit a suitable reducer bush.

    Mike.

Reply

  • how badly oval ? Is there any merit in a taper ream to take a more readily available ball-joint from another machine ? (harder to get a taper wrong than a parallel ream as well ) Why is it oval - has it been running for a while half undone ? I have been known to 'fix' that sort of thing in the field with a quick tack weld that can be cut off later when mission is over and things return to base.  (and to fill in gaps with a coating of braze metal and then recreate the original diameter, but not for an in-situ repair.)

    As you note the correct final solution is to drill out larger (but it may be quite hard to get perfectly square in situ) and to fit a suitable reducer bush.

    Mike.

Children
No Data

Community Rules & Guidelines