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DC injection braking and a burned out transformer

I have been fettling a lathe which was fitted with DC injection braking. I was a bit unsure about the condition of the components in an enclosure on the back, but having looked up a bit about motor control circuits and having learned about ladder diagrams, I have satisfied myself that I know what has happened.


At some stage, a transformer (240/130V) has burned out. That leaves two questions: (1) why? and (2) what is the spec of the old one?


The horizontal surfaces of the enclosure and its contents have been covered by a thin brown layer, which I assume is vapourised enamel from the transformer windings, but there is no evidence of any further damage.


Father taught me never to replace a fuse without finding the fault which blew it. Along the same lines, I want to be satisfied that none of the other components has caused a short circuit. However, it appears that it is the primary which has overheated. So my first question is what would happen if the secondary of a transformer is shorted. Would it be fried? Woud the primary be fried? Or would both be fried?


My second difficulty is determining the spec of the transformer. The circuit diagram has "N" and "240" on the primary side, and "Z" and "130" on the secondary side. I assume that this means that the secondary provides 130 V, which after rectification, is fed to the motor. The problem is that there are no markings on the transformer. The manufacturer of the unit ceased trading 10+ years ago, so no help there. The motor plate specifies 6.4/3.7 A. The transformer wires (both sides) are about 4.2 sqmm CSA so good for 3 - 5 A (?). Based on a weight of 4.0 kg and the transformer's dimensions, and comparing them with current models; I am guessing that a 320 VA transformer is required. My second question is whether my above reasoning is sound.


Before anybody else says it, yes, I think that I could get a modern module which will do the job, but isn't it more satisfying to fix rather than replace?

eabde54935c495ab8feb4fb009758b5e-huge-20190425transformer.jpg

Parents
  • The caps may be losing capacitance, but unless  they are bulging alarmingly then it is no biggy to substitute a similar part or if that is hard then leave them in and add some more uF in parallel. However, It looks like they are in parallel, what is the value/ voltage ?


    I have also had solder joints fail where fat legged components are held to the board, or fracture the track close to the solder blob, especially parts that run hot like the switching transistors. A bit of prodding with an insulated stick may reveal more - the old TV service technique of hitting things with the plastic handle of the screw driver to narrow down the are of a poor joint requires some nerve but can be revealing.

    Beware of damaging those orange encapsulated hybrids that seem to be doing the HV isolating the drive to the transistors- under the goo  is a small substrate and very small components, and some models of the things can be as rare as hen's teeth.



    IF you want to be sure it is the VFD, run the motor off 50Hz direct for a bit, or put 3 lamps on the VFD and see if they flicker when it misfires.
Reply
  • The caps may be losing capacitance, but unless  they are bulging alarmingly then it is no biggy to substitute a similar part or if that is hard then leave them in and add some more uF in parallel. However, It looks like they are in parallel, what is the value/ voltage ?


    I have also had solder joints fail where fat legged components are held to the board, or fracture the track close to the solder blob, especially parts that run hot like the switching transistors. A bit of prodding with an insulated stick may reveal more - the old TV service technique of hitting things with the plastic handle of the screw driver to narrow down the are of a poor joint requires some nerve but can be revealing.

    Beware of damaging those orange encapsulated hybrids that seem to be doing the HV isolating the drive to the transistors- under the goo  is a small substrate and very small components, and some models of the things can be as rare as hen's teeth.



    IF you want to be sure it is the VFD, run the motor off 50Hz direct for a bit, or put 3 lamps on the VFD and see if they flicker when it misfires.
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