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DC injection braking and a burned out transformer

I have been fettling a lathe which was fitted with DC injection braking. I was a bit unsure about the condition of the components in an enclosure on the back, but having looked up a bit about motor control circuits and having learned about ladder diagrams, I have satisfied myself that I know what has happened.


At some stage, a transformer (240/130V) has burned out. That leaves two questions: (1) why? and (2) what is the spec of the old one?


The horizontal surfaces of the enclosure and its contents have been covered by a thin brown layer, which I assume is vapourised enamel from the transformer windings, but there is no evidence of any further damage.


Father taught me never to replace a fuse without finding the fault which blew it. Along the same lines, I want to be satisfied that none of the other components has caused a short circuit. However, it appears that it is the primary which has overheated. So my first question is what would happen if the secondary of a transformer is shorted. Would it be fried? Woud the primary be fried? Or would both be fried?


My second difficulty is determining the spec of the transformer. The circuit diagram has "N" and "240" on the primary side, and "Z" and "130" on the secondary side. I assume that this means that the secondary provides 130 V, which after rectification, is fed to the motor. The problem is that there are no markings on the transformer. The manufacturer of the unit ceased trading 10+ years ago, so no help there. The motor plate specifies 6.4/3.7 A. The transformer wires (both sides) are about 4.2 sqmm CSA so good for 3 - 5 A (?). Based on a weight of 4.0 kg and the transformer's dimensions, and comparing them with current models; I am guessing that a 320 VA transformer is required. My second question is whether my above reasoning is sound.


Before anybody else says it, yes, I think that I could get a modern module which will do the job, but isn't it more satisfying to fix rather than replace?

eabde54935c495ab8feb4fb009758b5e-huge-20190425transformer.jpg

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  • sounds good.

    'dropping out' could be an intermittent  high series resistance, and fits with the observed  improvement after the Brasso treatment. An open is unlikely to be mid winding - there you may expect a turn to turn short or perhaps a turn to core short, over time the buzz of loose windings rubs the enamel insulation right through. The modern stuff is coated with a thermally activated glue, so the windings  can be set solid once in place. (for the funny shapes of motor windings, they are usually wound on a cylindrical bobbin off the motor, then the winding  bundles are massaged into place, so the setting phase has to be the last step)

    shorted turns are best found by comparing the inductance of the identical phase windings  the one with noticeably less inductance has shorted turns.


    Well done on the perseverance. I now wonder if that local specialist has scrapped many serviceable motors.


    I have had intermittent problems on a solenoid actuating a contactor where half heartedly prepared end of an enamelled wire went into an crimp lug and became a rather useless end to a winding - in that case a scrabble with the glass fibre brush to expose some copper and a touch of the  50W soldering iron put the problem to bed for ever.
Reply
  • sounds good.

    'dropping out' could be an intermittent  high series resistance, and fits with the observed  improvement after the Brasso treatment. An open is unlikely to be mid winding - there you may expect a turn to turn short or perhaps a turn to core short, over time the buzz of loose windings rubs the enamel insulation right through. The modern stuff is coated with a thermally activated glue, so the windings  can be set solid once in place. (for the funny shapes of motor windings, they are usually wound on a cylindrical bobbin off the motor, then the winding  bundles are massaged into place, so the setting phase has to be the last step)

    shorted turns are best found by comparing the inductance of the identical phase windings  the one with noticeably less inductance has shorted turns.


    Well done on the perseverance. I now wonder if that local specialist has scrapped many serviceable motors.


    I have had intermittent problems on a solenoid actuating a contactor where half heartedly prepared end of an enamelled wire went into an crimp lug and became a rather useless end to a winding - in that case a scrabble with the glass fibre brush to expose some copper and a touch of the  50W soldering iron put the problem to bed for ever.
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