Electrical Estimating.

The price for the job is the price for the job.

It has to be fair for both me and my customer.

I am not going to work for nothing.

I am not going to rip the customer off.

If I am asked if I can reduce it then my answer is "yes, a different price for a different package" never reduce a price for the same job. If someone did that for me then I would think it`s been loaded to start with. Example, to rewire a house I can reduce price by providing less sockets, lights, switching arrangements etc etc.

They can always get cheaper and they can always pay more and the sensible customer would not always nessacarily go for the cheapest or indeed the most expensive. I get 80% of my work by recommendation . Two specs can appear the same but can in reality be very different.

A race to the bottom is no way to price work, I will never do that and I am rarely the cheapest I usually find out, occasionally I find out I am the most expensive. I get about 85% of all works I estimate for.

The proper technical approved way to get a price if you have no recomendation etc to go on is:-

get at least 5 estimates. Disregard (initially) the highest and lowest. Do an arithmetical average of the remainder then look, in the first instance, at those within 10% of that average initially. Ask yourself which one you have most confidence with.

Customers who are obviously fishing for the cheapest price I politely fire `em off. The most infuriating thing I sometimes hear is "I want a competative quote" they get binned immediately.

I do not (usually anyway) go into a shop and haggle about the price of a marathon bar! Marathon bar? don`t I a mean Snickers? No a Marathon Bar, I am that old!

PS Kit Kats are four fingers not two, I remember when they first came out they were four fingers not two. A two fingered one is a half kit kat. And wagon wheel biscuits were massive things, more like the size of an actual wagon wheel (well not quite but you get my point).

The price for the job is the price for the job.

It has to be fair for both me and my customer.

I am not going to work for nothing.

I am not going to rip the customer off.

If I am asked if I can reduce it then my answer is "yes, a different price for a different package" never reduce a price for the same job. If someone did that for me then I would think it`s been loaded to start with. Example, to rewire a house I can reduce price by providing less sockets, lights, switching arrangements etc etc.

They can always get cheaper and they can always pay more and the sensible customer would not always nessacarily go for the cheapest or indeed the most expensive. I get 80% of my work by recommendation . Two specs can appear the same but can in reality be very different.

A race to the bottom is no way to price work, I will never do that and I am rarely the cheapest I usually find out, occasionally I find out I am the most expensive. I get about 85% of all works I estimate for.

The proper technical approved way to get a price if you have no recomendation etc to go on is:-

get at least 5 estimates. Disregard (initially) the highest and lowest. Do an arithmetical average of the remainder then look, in the first instance, at those within 10% of that average initially. Ask yourself which one you have most confidence with.

Customers who are obviously fishing for the cheapest price I politely fire `em off. The most infuriating thing I sometimes hear is "I want a competative quote" they get binned immediately.

I do not (usually anyway) go into a shop and haggle about the price of a marathon bar! Marathon bar? don`t I a mean Snickers? No a Marathon Bar, I am that old!

PS Kit Kats are four fingers not two, I remember when they first came out they were four fingers not two. A two fingered one is a half kit kat. And wagon wheel biscuits were massive things, more like the size of an actual wagon wheel (well not quite but you get my point).