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ecotec plus 831 combi boiler

aligarjon
Hi Guys.  I have had to remove a plug in timer from a ecotec plus 831 boiler today and fit external controls.  I can't get the boiler to fire, it sounds like it's running but isn't.  I seem to remember when fitting some of these internal clocks you have to remove a link for them to operate so i presume i have to put one back somewhere.  The only place i can see is the 12v stat plug.  I tried linking it out but it didn't make any difference.    Anyone a bit more knowledgable than me on here that can help out please.  Cheers.


Customer doesn't have the manual so downloaded one but struggling to find it.


The new controls put power to the rt terminal.  Just thought there is no cable in the other terminal by rt.  I think this is permanently live to feed the external controls anyway but didn't think to check.


Gary
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    As far as I can tell the only link is the one between terminals 3 & 4 that's removed to connect the external 'stat. (Manuals seem to be: https://www.vaillant.co.uk/downloads/z/ecotec/ecotec-installation-servicing-2-2005-261445.pdf for the boiler and http://cms.williamsharp.net/_assets/media/shop/product/403-instructions.pdf for one example of an internal timeswitch)

    it sounds like it's running but isn't



    I can't help wondering if your wiring is correct, but there's something else that's stopping the boiler from firing (if the flue fan for example starts running then presumably the boiler itself has received the 'call for heat' signal OK). Have you checked that the boiler flow temp hasn't been set very low or that some anti-short-cycling mechanism hasn't kicked in?


      - Andy.
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    Thanks Andy.   I am going to meet the plumber there as he needs to fit another zone valve.  ( an underfloor heating system has been added so trying to split it up).


    As for my wiring i think it's very strait forward as far as i can see.  I have fitted a programmable room stat that controls the main heating, this opens the valve and livens up the rt terminal in the boiler.  The boiler 'starts' but isn't heating the heating pipes.  I am now wondering if i have the correct terminal there .  I left the cable where it was when i jigged the old room stat cabling around.  I'll have another look at the on-line manual in a minute and check.  


    Cheers
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    Terms 3 and 4 are for 240 Volt thermostat use after the link removal. How have you wired the programmable room thermostat. Is it a 240 Volt model? Presumably it will need a L. and N.  supply and a switched L. output back to the the boiler. So is 3 or 4 the terminal that needs to be livened up to get the boiler to run? Is the water pressure gauge showing at least one bar?


    Z.
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    Hi Z.   thanks for replying.  Yes term 4 livens up with the programmer/stat on.   The water pressure was a little low to be fair but i couldn't see an obvious way to top it up.  The hot water works fine.   It has to be drained to fit the extra valve so hopefully will sort itself out.     


    Gary
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    Hi Z.   thanks for replying.  Yes term 4 livens up with the programmer/stat on.   The water pressure was a little low to be fair but i couldn't see an obvious way to top it up.  The hot water works fine.   It has to be drained to fit the extra valve so hopefully will sort itself out.     


    Forgot to say earlier, when i flicked the water on(turned a tap on) the heating pipes started to heat as well whilst it was fired up for the water.


    Gary
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    The boiler 'starts' but isn't heating the heating pipes.





    when i flicked the water on(turned a tap on) the heating pipes started to heat as well whilst it was fired up for the water.



    Sounds like the boiler's own internal diverter valve might not be quite on the ball - one for the plumber perhaps.


      - Andy.
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    You might be right Andy.  The customer e-mailed me earlier and said that they had set the under floor controller to frost setting because the heating had come  on and they were cooking. :)     I have to meet the plumber there at some point anyway so fingers crossed.  Thanks for your help Andy.  


    Gary
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    Sounds a bit like a friend of mine where the heating would only work when the hot water was cold.


    Turned out the diverter valve was back-to-front.
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    Just a quick update on this one.  The plumber had fitted the underfloor heating pump the wrong way, that and he hadn't fitted a zone valve for it.   ?


    Gary

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