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Test kit battery bleed down

whjohnson
I have a Megger MIT320 continuity/IR tester which seems to drain it's batteries when stored.

I fit a new set of batteries, go the the tester about a week or so later and the battery indicator says the batteries are low.

My LRCD220 Loop/RCD tester does it too, albeit more slowly.

Is this a fault? Or is there some kind of service which drains the batteries even though the kit is switched off and stored?

If not, anyone aware of potential causes or fixes?
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  • 0
    The MIT320 has a proper off switch and this does/ should  disconnect the batteries from the load. However, in a similar case I have been caught by a leaking EMC capacitor on the battery side of the switch,  that should have had no effect but in fact was a steady drain down.

    However before assuming that - are your meters stored indoors in the warm and dry - batteries do not  do well rolling about in a van even if properly off load.

    I have de-bugged such things in the past by inserting a small shim of double sided PB material with some flying leads between the battery and terminals, to allow me to intercept and measure the current with the batteries fitted. (I have also re-used the same design to add a real switch in series with something that only had a software  off)


    The quick fix is to take the batteries out when not in use, but it is pretty tedious to keep having to do that.
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  • 0
    The MIT320 has a proper off switch and this does/ should  disconnect the batteries from the load. However, in a similar case I have been caught by a leaking EMC capacitor on the battery side of the switch,  that should have had no effect but in fact was a steady drain down.

    However before assuming that - are your meters stored indoors in the warm and dry - batteries do not  do well rolling about in a van even if properly off load.

    I have de-bugged such things in the past by inserting a small shim of double sided PB material with some flying leads between the battery and terminals, to allow me to intercept and measure the current with the batteries fitted. (I have also re-used the same design to add a real switch in series with something that only had a software  off)


    The quick fix is to take the batteries out when not in use, but it is pretty tedious to keep having to do that.
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