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Ring Main Joint Box

PG
A kitchen worktop twin S,O, is to be relocated horizontally by about 60cm. 

The ring final cct (RFC) is cabled in buried T&E and the galv' steel back-box is flushed into the plaster/brick wall.

The RFC T&E extension cabling will be buried under plaster, covered in plastic capping along the horizontal  prescribed zone. Visually, it would be reasonable for an electrician to be aware that the route may contain cable(s).

The circuit is RCD protected.

The intent is touse insulated crimp and double insulating tape the jointed cables within the existing box to achieve a maintenance free connection, A 2mm thick (fabricated) plate was to be used to cover the back box and provide additional mechanical protection. The box would then be plastered over.


The questions are:-

1. How many would consider the steel plate back box cover a desirable feature or would a simple plastic cover suffice?

2. Should the original back box be left  unearthed?


Thanks in advance.
  • 0
    Right oh! How about dropping the socket (or any other accessory) into the cupboard under the sink/drainer? You might never use it, but it would be tidier above.
  • 0
    With simple rules for ring final circuits we know where we are. If a non fused spur can only supply a single OR a double socket then any socket with just a L and N is supplied by a spur. A non fused spur supplying two separate and distanced single sockets may appear to be on the ring at the first socket, but is not. So that is not allowed. Is it that simple? All other sockets with 2 or 3 Ls and Ns are on the ring.


    Z.
  • 0
    Great Forum! Thanks for the advice, even if I may have been a bit slow on the uptake!
    For late joiners, the centre of the discussion, mainly, revolved around moving a kitchen worktop socket whilst retaining clear indication of buried cable route (prescribed) zones. The socket has to be moved horizontally whilst the existing prescribed zones are vertical.
    The option for relocating the vertical drop to directly above the relocated socket is not available because the old kitchen units above the worktop will remain in place until late January and the electrical work has to be, substantially, completed now.
    OlyusMouse's suggestion of using a “dummy” blank to indicate the presence of a vertical route was innovative but I tend to agree with ebee’s suggestion that it may, in ignorance, get removed.
    Ebee’s speculation that there may be a socket vertically below the existing socket position is also correct. I agree that it couldn’t be used as an indication of the existing vertical zone. It will not even be visible or accessible when the new kitchen is installed so it is scheduled to be withdrawn or permanently blanked.
    Thanks again. The job’s done. The original  S.O. position is blanked with a plastic surface blank. The horizontal extension to the new position is  connected and the original box is earthed.

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