Rules and Guidelines
Want to participate in the discussions? Please read our Community Rules and Guidelines. Need some help? Visit Support and Answers.

  • State Not Answered
  • Locked Locked
  • Replies 22 replies
  • Subscribers 31 subscribers
  • Views 2640 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Options
You may also be interested in
This discussion is locked.
You cannot post a reply to this discussion. If you have a question start a new discussion

Wiring diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Anyone out there with a great mind for heating systems, care to draw me a wiring diagram ?


There is a

-warm flow oil boiler 

-Immersion 

-pipe stat 

-UFH Valve

-Manifold(8 zones)

-Hot water valve

-Hot water circulation 

-Towel warmer valve (stat is what’s on the towel rail)

-Upstairs heating valve

-2 x 2 channel Honeywell programmer

-1x 1 channel Honeywell programmer

-1x stat for upstairs radiators

-stat for each ufh zone 


Any advice on what I can use to get this all linked together, currently looking at S plan but I feel someone with experience with similar system  may give some better guidance 


Clint



Parents
  • 0

    Chris Pearson:




    whjohnson:

    Well if it were me, I'd leave a fused connection unit fitted with a 3A fuse next to the boiler and get the plumber who designed it to wire it up.




    Been there. Tried that. Failed. Moral of the story is for the householder to be clear who is contracted to do what.


    Concerning frost stat: when the "Beast from the East" was blowing a couple of winters ago, I got a call saying that the CH would not switch off. House was warm and toasty, but the external boiler house was not. It got through a lot of oil. ?


     




    That’s why you need a frost stat and pipe stat.


    The frost stat to turn the boiler and circulation pump on, the pipe stat on the return pipe to turn them off when the warm water gets back to the boiler. 


    Frost stat on at say 5 degrees and pipe stat off at 10 degrees. But that only protects the heating system itself.


    If you use programmable thermostats then the heating can kick in do the whole house doesn’t drop below 10 degrees, which also provides hypothermia protection for people, particularly elderly people who may fall and injure themselves, meaning they don’t freeze to death in their own homes.


     Andy Betteridge 

Reply
  • 0

    Chris Pearson:




    whjohnson:

    Well if it were me, I'd leave a fused connection unit fitted with a 3A fuse next to the boiler and get the plumber who designed it to wire it up.




    Been there. Tried that. Failed. Moral of the story is for the householder to be clear who is contracted to do what.


    Concerning frost stat: when the "Beast from the East" was blowing a couple of winters ago, I got a call saying that the CH would not switch off. House was warm and toasty, but the external boiler house was not. It got through a lot of oil. ?


     




    That’s why you need a frost stat and pipe stat.


    The frost stat to turn the boiler and circulation pump on, the pipe stat on the return pipe to turn them off when the warm water gets back to the boiler. 


    Frost stat on at say 5 degrees and pipe stat off at 10 degrees. But that only protects the heating system itself.


    If you use programmable thermostats then the heating can kick in do the whole house doesn’t drop below 10 degrees, which also provides hypothermia protection for people, particularly elderly people who may fall and injure themselves, meaning they don’t freeze to death in their own homes.


     Andy Betteridge 

Children
No Data

Join us to get the best from IET EngX.

Joining EngX lets you personalise your experience so you stay up to date on the topics that interest you, plus you’ll be able to make connections who are looking to collaborate, exchange ideas and more.

Join us Not now

Community Rules & Guidelines