BS for attached board?

The CIRCUIT-BREAKERS are BS 3871.


Regards


BOD

Thanks BOD.


I'm using safe search as I no longer want google hoovering up all my data so couldnt find that info so easily.


Ill just add this list if anyone is looking in the future:


Main switch (new)BS EN 60947-3 (old) BS 5419

Rewireable fuse BS 3036

RCBO BS EN 61009

RCD (new)BS EN 61008 (old) BS 4293

SRCD BS 7288

MCB BS EN 60898 (types B,C,D)

MCB BS 3871 (types 1,2,3)

Fuse BS 1361 (type 1 & 2)

Fuse BS 88

Fuse BS 1362 (plug top)

As BOD has already pointed out those fuses are BS 3871 Type 2 circuit breakers. They are Crabtree C50 circuit breakers, the ones with white paint in the handles are 3kA rated and the ones with yellow paint are 4.5kA rated. The main switch will be BS 5419 if it is original?


Built like the proverbial brick outhouse but watch out for the exposed live bus bars inside.

Nasty old bit of tat.


I have not worked on one for some years, the last one I worked on had an upfront 30 mA RCD so I did the alterations to the  kitchen socket ring circuit for the kitchen firm and had a complaint a few days later that the 30-amp MCB was tripping.


So I wasted several hours going back only to find that the 30-amp MCB actually tripped on a load of 20-amps, so I swapped it with a lightly loaded bedroom socket circuit MCB and everyone was reasonably happy apart from me, having lost half a days money.


I consider it legacy equipment that is definitely due for replacement.


 Andy Betteridge

MCB BS 3871 (types 1,2,3)

Fuse BS 1361 (type 1 & 2)

Fuse BS 88

Some later BS 3871 MCBs were designated using the letter-types (B, C etc) too.


BS 1361 is defunct - replaced by BS 88-3 (arguably now 60269).


  - Andy.

There are still quite a few of these in service in our locality. Had one with an interesting failure mode, after repeated tripping due to a faulty light fitting and being repeatedly closed on the fault (WHY do people do that?).. after the fitting was replaced (they blew the fault clear eventually!), the breaker was VERY unhappy even at a 4 amp load (via clamp meter, the breaker had a 10 amp rating).. getting noticably warm after only a few minutes. A NOS replacement (our local independent wholesaler is a hoarder) fixed it and was fine. I took the old breaker apart, expecting badly burned contacts, but nothing excessive, surprisingly clean... the area that had been getting warm was near the magnet coil,  not the area I'd have suspected...

Thanks for the posts. Interesting that this stuff is still in use. This one is Tower Hamlets area. The electrics there were near perfect despite not being tested for 20 odd years. The new build I tested yesterday had a C1, and 4 C2 faults. Took 8 hours to rectify everything.