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Do I need two mains supplies for boiler and wiring centre?

Former Community Member
Former Community Member

Good evening, Just like to say hello and that I am not a gas engineer or an electrician, but I would just like to understand what I need to ask for. I have a question about an old y-plan central heating installation dating back to 2000. I have an old Gloworm micron 50ff boiler situated in the consumer unit cupboard. However, it is connected to the wiring centre situated in the hot water cupboard 6 meters away via 3 wires, switched live, neutral and earth. I also have an old Grundfoss pump connected into the wiring centre that has only 4 wires, Blue, orange, brown-white, and grey, (I notice new pumps have 5 wires). The pump also has 3 settings using 40,65 & 95 watts. I also have 3 port mid-position valve, room stat, hot water stat and 2 channel programmer, (all from Danfoss heatshare pack).



 



Due to limited access in consumer unit cupboard I am limited to fitting either a Worcester greenstar ri series boiler or a Baxi ecoblue advance. Looking at the wiring diagrams, with my limited understanding, does fitting the Bosch require separate mains supplies in each cupboard, one for the boiler and one for the wiring centre and will the pump kill the boiler using an extra 5 watts as the worcester boiler is rated at 90 watts, and could I still use it with only 4 wires or would I need a new 5 wire pump too.



 



Or would it be better to go for what seems to be the simpler option of the Baxi as it requires no pump overrun or permanent live and looks as though it is fed with just live, neutral and earth from the wiring centre as I have now.



 



Sorry about the long question, and many thanks in advance. Simon.


Parents
  • If the valve switches from hot water to rads properly, then you can re-use it - the boiler does not care, so long as it has power and a line that goes live to say 'light the fire now'.

    The valve and various thermostats are interlinked to provide that signal, so if the water is cold, and the valve is in that position, then fire, or if the room stat is cold and the valve is in the other position then fire...


    One or other of your thermostats will need a back contact, so that it can report 'demand for heat' and also 'no demand for heat = satisfied' to force the changeover.

    This is normally best explained in the instructions for the combined heat and water timers.


    It is just mains level logic, but it can be quite confusing, as there as the equivalent of a not and = or not.

    As a personal opinion, I'd go with the Bosch if you can afford it, I've had one for ~ 15yrs now and it has just had its first fault.


Reply
  • If the valve switches from hot water to rads properly, then you can re-use it - the boiler does not care, so long as it has power and a line that goes live to say 'light the fire now'.

    The valve and various thermostats are interlinked to provide that signal, so if the water is cold, and the valve is in that position, then fire, or if the room stat is cold and the valve is in the other position then fire...


    One or other of your thermostats will need a back contact, so that it can report 'demand for heat' and also 'no demand for heat = satisfied' to force the changeover.

    This is normally best explained in the instructions for the combined heat and water timers.


    It is just mains level logic, but it can be quite confusing, as there as the equivalent of a not and = or not.

    As a personal opinion, I'd go with the Bosch if you can afford it, I've had one for ~ 15yrs now and it has just had its first fault.


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