The problem with this is that we are often asked to fit blue plugs to items with small conductor size ... eg a cord grip lamp holder lead set.
these are often in shot for 10 minutes then removed. But, obviously their cable is only 3A.......
There might not be a real problem there. The fuse in a 13A plug is only there to protect the flex from faults - i.e. fault currents of hundreds if not thousands of amps - it's up to the appliance itself not to overload. A 16A or 20A protective device (supplying the 16A socket) will open almost as quickly as a 3A fuse under those sort of conditions. That's why most of the world doesn't have fuses in their plugs. We only need them to allow us to have 30A+ protective devices on our socket circuits.
If you really want a fuse then perhaps a 16A plug connected to a 13A trailing socket, so the 13A plug plugged into that can be fused at what you like (even if it is then connected to a 16A trailing socket to match the appliance).
The problem with this is that we are often asked to fit blue plugs to items with small conductor size ... eg a cord grip lamp holder lead set.
these are often in shot for 10 minutes then removed. But, obviously their cable is only 3A.......
There might not be a real problem there. The fuse in a 13A plug is only there to protect the flex from faults - i.e. fault currents of hundreds if not thousands of amps - it's up to the appliance itself not to overload. A 16A or 20A protective device (supplying the 16A socket) will open almost as quickly as a 3A fuse under those sort of conditions. That's why most of the world doesn't have fuses in their plugs. We only need them to allow us to have 30A+ protective devices on our socket circuits.
If you really want a fuse then perhaps a 16A plug connected to a 13A trailing socket, so the 13A plug plugged into that can be fused at what you like (even if it is then connected to a 16A trailing socket to match the appliance).
