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Lights for hi temp environment.

Allow me to begin by saying I don't like the idea I am putting forward here - it is the customer's request.

Basically, they wish to illuminate the alcove/fireplace in which their log burner currently resides.

This means drilling through the right hand cheek of the fireplace to provide access for cables. Intention is to terminate into a 13A plug to enable connection into an adjacent socket outlet.

Now, Is there any kind of lighting suitable for this? Something like a singly spot mounted on the floor shining upwards and which would cope with the local ambient temp immediately around the log burner case?

Cabling? Tri-rated or butyl rubber?

Personally I think it's a daft idea but said I would investigate the possibilities.


Comments welcome.
  • I had this dilemma when I was was considering installing lights in an extractor hood over a cooker in a large restaurant kitchen, so chef could see to stir the soup. Years ago I would have used a metal and glass bulkhead fitting with a ceramic lampholder and a rough service filament bulb. But now, I just do not know what to use in hot locations.


    Z.
  • Dpeends on the type of log burner and where you locate the lights. The log burner I've got at home (a clean burn model with a rather complicated air inlet system) is actually quite cool on the outside of its bottom half (ash pan level and below) - as that's where the main air intake runs - to the point that'll entirely happy that there's a wicker basket full of kindling right next to it!  Higher up it's quite a different story with both concented and radiated heat to contend with - I certainly wouldn't put anything within 3x the diameter of the flue.


    Obviously you wouldn't want to locate lights where they could be covered or hit by logs or tongs etc stored next to the stove.


    You might also want to check building reg (part J - combustion appliances) - there are some quite definite rules about how close to an appliance (and flue) combustable items can be installed - and I suspect that anything electrical will count as combustable (even if you had ceramic lampholders and bare MICC the sleeving on the terminations wouldn't be non-combustible).


      - Andy.
  • 12V, and with the PSU in the cold place, and rubber or over sleeved cable come to mind. Filament only , a LEDS and CFL will not last unless you can keep them out of the heat and bring the light where it is needed by mirrors. For ELV bare MES lampholders  OK for perhaps 100- 120C exist.


    alternatively mains oven lamps are still made, though the only holders for them I have seen are designed to mount in a metal sheet so a metal box with a hole would be needed.

    Or perhaps have the PSU and the light in the cold zone, and bring the light in by fibre optic guide, though most examples of fibre for lights on sale are plastic fibre which is no advantage.
  • https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hazardous-area-light-fittings/3267492/

    not cheap, but can be in ambient temp of 90degC

    might be worth finding out the temperature in the area where it will be sited with fire raging, thinking of those temp indicator stickers.

  • mapj1:

    alternatively mains oven lamps are still made, though the only holders for them I have seen are designed to mount in a metal sheet




    The lamps are readily available (I just got a replacement on-line) and generally have a standard SES fitting (14mm screw fitting) so the lamp is easy as they are designed for oven temperatures up to 220 degrees Celsius. If you have a ceramic holder the main problem will be the cabling. The holders inside the ovens have a primary function of protecting the lamp from fat/grease and other cooking products which I presume will not be necessary in this instance.

  • ses lampholder - looks like Artidi 230C rated.

    data
  • 12 volt or 24 volt supply, incandescent lamps, and high temperature wire.

    "oven lamps" are available in 24/25 volt, as are brass and ceramic lamp holders to fit them.

    High temperature wire is available, primarily intended for internal wiring of cooking and heating appliances, something like this Hi temp wire fleabay


    Alternatively consider 12 volt MR16 lamps. Lamp holders for these normally come with short lengths of PTFE wire attached, but they are available to special order with much longer wires that will reach to a cold area.
  • I have an ordinary 4ft fluorescent fitted in a recess directly above (2ft)  my rayburn range, the flue passes within 8" of it. It has been there 30 years and works fine. Given the number of spiders webs in the recess  the temp can't get too high. I would not think the temperatures are going to get very high unless the light is very close to the stove. Air circulation will tend to keep the temperatures down. I have a solid fuel stove in another room with ironwork within 5 inches of the side and it does not get so hot that you cannot touch it. I think you need to test the temp with the log burner going. You may be pleasantly surprised.
  • I discussed the issue directly with the customer yesterday and we are going to take some temperature readings from different areas around the burner and hearth. Thankfully, he is already familiar with Building Regulations concerning log burner installations due to one of his initial proposals during the burner installation being a wish to install an oak mantle above the burner itself, and a requirement whereby the rear side of the oak beam having to be clad in copper sheet to mitigate any harmful heating effects.

    I had actually suggested a couple of candlesticks instead in order to negate the need to run any cables!
  • The candles would probably melt ?


    Best regards


    Roger