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DC LV Battery Power Supply for Motorhome

Hi everyone!


I've been asked to install some wiring in a van conversion and I need a bit of advice. The plan is a 110Ah 12V leisure battery, a SELV system and TT earthing (earth electrode from the body of the van.) 


I'm trying to work out the PSCC and PFC so I can choose the overcurrent and fault protection.


So,


a) Is measuring the impedance of the battery and using Uo Cmax / Zs 2R1 (with the measured battery impedance as Zs) acceptable to calculate PSCC


and,


b) Is Uo/Ze (with measured the battery impedance as Ze) acceptable to calculate PFC?


Many thanks in advance for your answers.


Trig


Parents
  • Ok, more info coming up...


    The vehicle is some kind of sprinter van. It includes 2 x 3w usb chargers, 1 mains double socket (which I've already advised won't actually work properly or safely on 12v.), 2 LED strip lights, 1 waterpump to be installed in a tank under the chassis, 1 extractor fan (biggest headache of all), gas powered fridge, cooker and shower and a log burner (I've requested that flame proofing is applied to all the wood, might suggest installing a canary).


    I've taken voltage drop instructions from A721.523 "not to exceed 0.8V" I take this to be the whole circuit including the battery. I've just managed to convince the client to get battery monitors and had a bit of a look at invertors and think that will definitely be the best thing to do regarding the mains socket, which you are absolutely right on, things will creep into this van I'm sure.


    So the next question is this. I have in the design an RCD on the extractor fan circuit, it'll be zone 1, very close to a gas shower and it has a light on it, goes straight through the body of the van. Needless to say, not very happy about all of that would be an understatement, I had calculated 5.5m of 1mm stranded cable which is at the higher end for volt drop anyway. I'd much rather get rid of the gas altogether and get a big enough invertor to do the job.


    I guess having a long conversation with the client is what I'm going to be doing today. Gas fittings + log burner = boom.


    Once again, thank you all, I do appreciate it, bear in mind I have only had a week with the proposed system, still at the very beginning so there's still time to turn it around.
Reply
  • Ok, more info coming up...


    The vehicle is some kind of sprinter van. It includes 2 x 3w usb chargers, 1 mains double socket (which I've already advised won't actually work properly or safely on 12v.), 2 LED strip lights, 1 waterpump to be installed in a tank under the chassis, 1 extractor fan (biggest headache of all), gas powered fridge, cooker and shower and a log burner (I've requested that flame proofing is applied to all the wood, might suggest installing a canary).


    I've taken voltage drop instructions from A721.523 "not to exceed 0.8V" I take this to be the whole circuit including the battery. I've just managed to convince the client to get battery monitors and had a bit of a look at invertors and think that will definitely be the best thing to do regarding the mains socket, which you are absolutely right on, things will creep into this van I'm sure.


    So the next question is this. I have in the design an RCD on the extractor fan circuit, it'll be zone 1, very close to a gas shower and it has a light on it, goes straight through the body of the van. Needless to say, not very happy about all of that would be an understatement, I had calculated 5.5m of 1mm stranded cable which is at the higher end for volt drop anyway. I'd much rather get rid of the gas altogether and get a big enough invertor to do the job.


    I guess having a long conversation with the client is what I'm going to be doing today. Gas fittings + log burner = boom.


    Once again, thank you all, I do appreciate it, bear in mind I have only had a week with the proposed system, still at the very beginning so there's still time to turn it around.
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