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Crimping Problems

Hello

I have been struck by how variable the results of uninsulated lug crimping can be.  This was initiated after crimping a lug on some 35mm2 SWA with a Hex crimping tool.  After crimping it was clear that the lug really wasn't that tight on the cable.  I normally use an indent type tool for smaller sizes and so far haven't had a problem but my tool tops out at 25mm2 hence the hex crimp.  


Googling leads to a range of horror stories and practices including crimping one size down which tends to produce ears on the lug reducing copper section by considerable margins which cant be desirable.


I have tried a range of different lugs from different sources and the results are really quite variable.  I know that the correct procedure is to use the crimp tool manufacturer's lugs and the corresponding dies but it seems to be both difficult and expensive to do so and I doubt that most of the smaller crimps  are done in the correct way.  My local wholesaler only carries one type of lug and I don't think the maker makes a crimp tool.  


I have spent some time measuring the 35mm2  lugs and tool dies with a  Vernier.  This is harder than it sounds as the lugs are not quite circular and not quite cylindrical.  Interestingly I get an average excess area of copper of only around 2% within a range -3%!! to 7%.  I have always thought that somewhere around  10% excess was required for the best electrical and mechanical properties.  The -3% does explain why the joint was pretty poor though.

This reference http://www.cable-glands-cable-cleats-crimping-tools.co.uk/BS7609-BS7727-British-Standards.htm has some interesting information including a chart which seems to confirm the 10% reduction.


In an emergency the best way forward seems to be careful measurement of lugs and dies and topping up the copper content of the crimp with a few carefully selected very short strands when I cant source a lug with thick enough walls.  


I understand that it doesn't matter within limits if the lug is loose on the cable to start with.  What matters is that the cross section of the copper in the lug plus cable is around 10% more  than the die cross section (and that the dies close completely).


It does however seem daft that there isn't wider cost effective availability of matching lugs and tools or and easy compatibility system (like the Red, blue, yellow for insulated lugs) given the likelihood that poor joints may run hot at least.  


What do you think or am I missing something?



edited to clarify and correct
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    What matters is that the cross section of the lug plus cable is around 10% less than the die cross section (and that the dies close completely).


    Have I misread this? Shouldn't it be 10% more to enable "compression"?


    Regards


    BOD
  • Yes thanks I will correct.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    You could go "American" and go dieless crimping with their "pressure sensitive" four jaw tool if you've got the money!


    I find it very useful when doing connections for the 4x4 community where I can take a 25 mm2 feed cable to the back of the vehicle and put a 6 mm2 in with it inside the same 35 mm2 lug and crimp to take off an "unfused spur" for 12 V outlets. Or 35 mm2 and 6 mm2 in a 50 mm2 lug etc


    Regards


    BOD
  • I have tried (and own) a few cheaper hexagonal hydrolic crimpers - which are readily available......and A Guy I work with regularly (Clive) has a crimper that is rather older but he paid £2000 for it at the time - the results are worlds apart.


    The expensive - quality precision crimper does a perfect job every single time, and my cheaper hydrolic crimpers just do not. Especially when you get to the more triangular shaped SWA cable sizes (The shape of the cross sectional area of the actual cable in the SWA).


    If I did not work with this guy Clive already and have access to his crimper, I'd have spent several fortunes to get a desent crimper for myself. Don't buy cheap I'd say. The results are astuondingly different.
  • I find the large indentor crimper very good, up to 95mm2 and always can give good crimps. The hex ones are fine with known cable sizes and matching crimps but have very little room for variations, whereas the indentor will crimp even poor fits well.
  • Thanks David, I suspect I will end up buying a bigger indent tool.  The ones I have seen have a screw adjuster which could be useful to give intermediate settings.  Still cant help feeling that this area would benefit from some more standardisation though.
  • Are you buying the crimps from the same manufacturer that made the crimping tool?


    Andy B.
  • In some cases no and you are right to point this out. 


    As well as airing my own challenge I was trying to draw attention to the range of crimps available (quite a lot from manufacturers that don't make tools) and the likelihood of getting a poor result due to a combination of:  sourcing difficulties;  a lack of sufficient standardisation of lug cross section / tool die cross section; coupled with a lack of awareness. "Its just a lug!" Perhaps some crimps are designed for indent tools only rather than hex but the packaging of many crimps lacks any guidance or specification.  Including the lug tube copper area would help and provide a way of determining compatibility as would a list of compatible tools.

    I suspect that there are many barely adequate joints out there because of compatibility issues. The 'crimp one size down' work around appears to be sufficiently prevalent (though possibly dangerous) to show that the problem is widespread.

    Rant over.
  • I have a cheap small hex crimp tool from a local wholesaler that leaves “ears” on the crimps, regardless of what make the crimps are.


    I also have a big Klauke hex crimp tool and will have to own up to using SWA crimps with it, not long after I acquired it I went to an Elex show, but they didn’t have crimps for sale on the stand and I was going to end up spending a silly amount of money stocking up on crimps to extend a few 16 and 10 mm earthing and bonding conductors, when actually the SWA crimps bought in packets of ten from another local wholesaler end up looking very neat and are very secure.


    However if push comes to shove the Kluake crimper stamps the crimp and it can be determined if you used the correct tool and size of die for the crimps. 


    Andy B