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Earth Electrode Concern.

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I was working in a large back garden today. The garden shed was connected to an old caravan supply (caravan gone) and the underground S.W.A. cable from the house had been  converted to TT earthing originally for the caravan and now for the shed sockets and lighting. As an earth electrode somebody had used a length of  10mm galvanised threaded rod (studding). What are your views about its suitability please?


Z.
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    new rods in dry ground are always a bit loose, joins or not as the hammering gives them a radial vibration, and you can speed them up in reaching a lower Ze a bit by watering them in.

    There are various ways the beer disposal squad may do this if they have been busy trenching and hammering  in the sun after a pub lunch, the finer details rather depend who is watching.

    Nowadays the SDS drill makes it easy in some soils, and in other cases if you have water available at pressure, then a water drill is better. In really hard substrates a flat or near flat electrode or a doped concrete slab may be considered. If you are in a hurry, and moving on tomorrow, then lay the rod flat on the soft and park the truck with the tyres over it.
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  • 0
    new rods in dry ground are always a bit loose, joins or not as the hammering gives them a radial vibration, and you can speed them up in reaching a lower Ze a bit by watering them in.

    There are various ways the beer disposal squad may do this if they have been busy trenching and hammering  in the sun after a pub lunch, the finer details rather depend who is watching.

    Nowadays the SDS drill makes it easy in some soils, and in other cases if you have water available at pressure, then a water drill is better. In really hard substrates a flat or near flat electrode or a doped concrete slab may be considered. If you are in a hurry, and moving on tomorrow, then lay the rod flat on the soft and park the truck with the tyres over it.
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