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Motors and voltage drop

Chris Pearson
I feel that I ought to know the answer to this one ...


Typically my woodworking machines draw about 6 times the rated current on start-up. So when checking for voltage drop, should I use the rated current (i.e. when on load) or the starting current?


In my particular case, there is no problem because the origin is in the workshop. However, a friend has told me that he has used a whole drum of cable (4 mm 2 for two circuits) and the biggest machines are furthest away. I would be interested to see whether he may expect starting problems. Least cost is his main priority in life.
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    I have come across this one myself with a spindle moulder which had a braked motor. These have an internal brake and it is disengaged by the motor field as long as there is sufficient voltage, but there wasn't, which resulted in blown fuses as the motor wouldn't start with the brake engaged! Some much thicker cables did fix the problem, but it was rather confusing for a bit. Brakes on woodworking machines are now common for H&S, so could well happen with a new machine.
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    I have come across this one myself with a spindle moulder which had a braked motor. These have an internal brake and it is disengaged by the motor field as long as there is sufficient voltage, but there wasn't, which resulted in blown fuses as the motor wouldn't start with the brake engaged! Some much thicker cables did fix the problem, but it was rather confusing for a bit. Brakes on woodworking machines are now common for H&S, so could well happen with a new machine.
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