Quinetic switches etc

video on pairing of switches and lights with care they can be made to operate each others fittings if you like ;-)

All about flicking the switch at the right time while the mains powered bit is in it's 'learning' state.


The switches actually send a rather complex 'chirp' - a busrt of modulated data, and this carries a unique pattern  used to pair sender and receiver.

hope that helps.

I'm still trying to get my head around how which switch knows which light to operate in multiple switch/light scenarios within the same property. The videos explain how to pair one switch h to one controller, simple, I have already done that with the existing set-up. I can grasp the concept of a single switch commoned up to 10 controllers who all get the same command frequency, but what about 10 switches, 10 lights and 10 controllers?

Now then, there is mention of 3 keys in the installation instructions. Is this referring to a set-up where a max of 3 switches and 3 lights can be controlled independently?

Each wall switch or fob  emits a unique chirp ' I am switch no.199 , I am switch no 77 ' etc.


Earch receiver will change the state of it's relay contacts, on reception of any of the switch identities it has been programmed with. (which may for example be 199 and 77 in one case, 77 on its own for another  but 199 and 33 in another, and 1026 in a third.)


They all transmit on the same frequency, but the chirps of data are very short, so collision is unlikely.

I have talked with the actual developer (a chap from London, TLC gave me his phone number after an issue with a floodlight with integrated receiver, turns out the instructions were incorrect). He stated that there are over 16 million possible combinations. If this is a real figure rather than an 'off the cuff' remark, it suggests each switch has at least a 32 bit Identifier.


The number of switches controlling any ONE receiver is the issue, as the receivers have to 'learn' the codes. An unlimited number of receivers can be actuated by any one switch.


We've installed a bank of 16 of them in the attic/fuseboard area of a large house (customer had the place decorated BEFORE discovering the degrading 1930s TRS black rubber cabling!) so no possibility of rewiring switch drops., so we ended up with a bank of 10 on the ground floor adjacent to the CU, and 6 just inside the loft hatch. All worked without a hitch, no interference.


We now fit the MK or varilight grid modules along with a yoke and the customer's choice of faceplate.


The additional versatility of keyfobs that can be set to (say) turn on the porch and hall light when pulling into the driveway, often sells this to the customer.


So far, in 3 yrs of fitting them, (cross fingers) only one callback. This was because of the grid module being inside an earthed metal box with earthed metal faceplate (perfect faraday cage!). Even this was easily resolved by moving the receiver (for undercabinet lighting in the kitchen) closer to the switch

presumably the RF link budget (transmitter power, losses and minimum detectable signal) was very close to failure when first installed, and addition of lossy furniture or decor chopped of a few dB off the signal strength, or an new source of interference raised the noise floor a bit,  and put it into  the more unreliable than not region.

I often think simple  radio links like this need a way to indicate signal to noise ratio or link budget margin  before it gets critical On a real comms system you like plenty in hand, like a factor of ten or so, or it will be intermittent eventually.

Sorry for the delay replying. Yes, it is as Mapj1 says... the signal was very marginal to begin with. What changed was the kitchen went from 'a building site' to a functioning kitchen. The fully integrated fridge right next to the switch and between it and the receiver is what tipped the balance.


Oddly even in its failure mode, the failure was only 'once in a blue moon'. Being a new install, the customer rightly had us put it right. Which we did by extending the receiver to very close to the switch position with 3core and earth LSF clipped direct above the cabinets out of sight. The reason for the need for quinetic was the existing decor in the half of the kitchen with the switch was not to be touched.