This discussion is locked.
You cannot post a reply to this discussion. If you have a question start a new discussion

Earthing my neutral??

As the title says I want to know your views on this: I have a receiver which requires 220 volts DC HT for the valve anodes and 12.6 volts DC for the heaters from a seperate PSU  at the moment I have it run via a variac  fed from an isolation TX the unfortunate thing is its audio output is a bit on the low side so I want to run it through an audio amplifier the thing is the amp has the mains neutral straight to chassis  and one side of AF input also to the chassis  so if I link the 2 beasts together my receiver RF Earth will also be taking the amps chassis to earth I could run it all from the isolation TX  do you think that's the best option?
Parents
  • Hi mapj1 I gave it around half a minute warm up time  the set itself has no built in power supply when in its millatery role it had a vibrator pack which plugged into a socket at the back this is long gone and as it would of needed 28 VDC would of been unusable anyway.  Back to now the 12.6 volts for the heaters came from a perfectly standard  3 amp 12 volts PSU the heaters consume around 950 mA when running and are a nice healthy orange color. Now for the HT.this is derived from a bridge rectifier fed from a variac with about 170 volts  AC input it gives 220 DC  with a 100uF smoothing cap in place. The connection from the set to the power supply's is via 3 wires the green is the common negative for heaters and HT  black is heaters positive and red HT positive. All worked well until I tried to connect it to a valve audio amp with its chassis connected to mains neutral and the audio connected one half via a resistor to the valve and the audio common to chassis  all 3 items were plugged into the same isolation TX when it all went bang
Reply
  • Hi mapj1 I gave it around half a minute warm up time  the set itself has no built in power supply when in its millatery role it had a vibrator pack which plugged into a socket at the back this is long gone and as it would of needed 28 VDC would of been unusable anyway.  Back to now the 12.6 volts for the heaters came from a perfectly standard  3 amp 12 volts PSU the heaters consume around 950 mA when running and are a nice healthy orange color. Now for the HT.this is derived from a bridge rectifier fed from a variac with about 170 volts  AC input it gives 220 DC  with a 100uF smoothing cap in place. The connection from the set to the power supply's is via 3 wires the green is the common negative for heaters and HT  black is heaters positive and red HT positive. All worked well until I tried to connect it to a valve audio amp with its chassis connected to mains neutral and the audio connected one half via a resistor to the valve and the audio common to chassis  all 3 items were plugged into the same isolation TX when it all went bang
Children
No Data