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Maximum sustained current perrmitted from 13 amp plug ?

This sounds an overly simplistic question, and the obvious answer is of course 13 amps. There is a clue in the name you know.


However in the case of a simple resistive load, the current will increase at a higher supply voltage. So at what voltage is the current measured for approval purposes ?

At 230 volts, the nominal or declared voltage ?

At 240 volts, the average voltage actually supplied most of the time in most places ?

Or at 253 volts, the maximum permitted. Or even at 256 volts the maximum achieved in an outbuilding with a bit of voltage rise due to grid tied PV on the roof.


The question has arisen due to a number of brand new "fast boiling" domestic electric kettles of reputable make failing a third party  PAT test due to "excessive current"


I repeated the test with my PAT tester and achieved a similar result, FAIL  in the premises in which they are to be used, but "pass" if tested elsewhere.

Tests with a variac and calibrated ammeter showed that a cold kettle on a 250 volt supply uses nearly 14 amps. just under 13 amps at 230 volts, both figures declining a little as the water starts to heat.

Had I done the original testing, I would have been inclined to use a little common sense and discretion and to pass an appliance that uses less than 10% overcurrent for a few minutes.

I would not pass an appliance such as a space heater that used even a slight overcurrent for hours at a time.


Wondered what others think.


And whilst we are on the subject, what about large portable air conditioners ? Available to hire fitted with 13 amp plugs, they appear to be a constant wattage load and use nearly 15 amps if the supply voltage is very low, and almost exactly 13 amps at 240 volts.
Parents
  • Good, or I'd have been suggesting you should be checking for an N-E reversal at the plug, a mistake that RCDs have almost eliminated.

    Actually I have a feeling that the leakage to earth figures are also better on modern kit, maybe another effect of RCDs and returns from irate customer is that manufacturers are a bit more careful with the moisture control and sealing of mineral insulated elements in kettles, cookers etc..

    On the OP, given that the flex on most kettles is clearly only rated for intermittent operation, I imagine we can extend the same latitude to the plug, though how much I'm not sure - if it says 13.5A well all is OK, but if it was nearer 15 probably not, I can see the concern.

    Somewhere I have a photo of a real fast kettle we used on field trials where inclement weather and poor shelter meant the normal arrangement took far too long, basically an ordinary domestic model, but wired between 2 phases on a genset to get 400V instead of 230. Very fast but no issues with the 13A fuse or the plug during the time it took to boil. It lasted the duration of the trials and was very popular.

    I'm not recommending that of course, and it hinges on the cold weather, but it does suggest that there is scope for allowing a higher 'short duration' rating.  The corollary is that a 13A plug with a long duration load, like an immersion heater, especially in a place that is already warm and badly ventilated, like an airing cupboard,  can suffer from overheating with a load that is less than 13A, so for  a long duration load, the situation is very different. A similar long overload situation may welll apply to the higher power 13A car  chargers, for which improved 13A sockets and plugs are supposed to exist, presumably with more metal and less plastic, though I am not seeing much evidence of them in use.


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  • Good, or I'd have been suggesting you should be checking for an N-E reversal at the plug, a mistake that RCDs have almost eliminated.

    Actually I have a feeling that the leakage to earth figures are also better on modern kit, maybe another effect of RCDs and returns from irate customer is that manufacturers are a bit more careful with the moisture control and sealing of mineral insulated elements in kettles, cookers etc..

    On the OP, given that the flex on most kettles is clearly only rated for intermittent operation, I imagine we can extend the same latitude to the plug, though how much I'm not sure - if it says 13.5A well all is OK, but if it was nearer 15 probably not, I can see the concern.

    Somewhere I have a photo of a real fast kettle we used on field trials where inclement weather and poor shelter meant the normal arrangement took far too long, basically an ordinary domestic model, but wired between 2 phases on a genset to get 400V instead of 230. Very fast but no issues with the 13A fuse or the plug during the time it took to boil. It lasted the duration of the trials and was very popular.

    I'm not recommending that of course, and it hinges on the cold weather, but it does suggest that there is scope for allowing a higher 'short duration' rating.  The corollary is that a 13A plug with a long duration load, like an immersion heater, especially in a place that is already warm and badly ventilated, like an airing cupboard,  can suffer from overheating with a load that is less than 13A, so for  a long duration load, the situation is very different. A similar long overload situation may welll apply to the higher power 13A car  chargers, for which improved 13A sockets and plugs are supposed to exist, presumably with more metal and less plastic, though I am not seeing much evidence of them in use.


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