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New EICR "unsatisfactory" - complete rewire required?!?

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
The lighting circuit has no CPC (earth), this is not uncommon in older houses. For that reason all light fittings are Class 2 i.e. plastic with no metal, and there is a clause in the tenancy agreement which forbids tampering with the light fittings (this is a house we own and rent out).


Previous EICRs did not even mention the lighting circuit because of the Class 2 fittings. I have just got a new EICR with an observation "lighting circuits have little or no earth" and classification code C1 ("Danger present, risk of injury, immediate remedial action required"). The overall assessment says "Unsatisfactory" with the comment "Needs updating to current regs". This can only be fixed by a complete rewire of the whole lighting circuit.


This is pointless, there are no earth connections in the plastic fittings.


Any thoughts? Many thanks.
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    I've done this a few times, success rate about 90% if it moves at all, not worth trying if it does not - you need to form a very flat joint, in the manner of a running splice, so the 3 (or 2 in this case) cores have their looped sections not side by side.

    Do not bother if you and accomplice cannot get the wire to move up and down an inch or 2 behind the capping with sensible hand tension. before even doing this give both ends a quick go with the hoover - a sharp edged  'snot' of  plaster dropping in at the wrong moment could jam it solid.


    Assuming so far, you are in  with a chance...

    Working from above, so gravity is on your side..

    So remove the outer jacket for 4-6 inches on both the old and the new. Strip L and N offset so that there is one with about 1.5 inches of bare copper, and one with more like 3.

    form loops with the round nosed pliers, and then wrap back, or do the western union splice of (page 7 this PDF) set both splices offset, and rebuild with tape to re-create jacket profile, or at least something with no great lumps or steps in diameter. A quick massage with either washing up liquid or that fancy stuff plumbers use (no tittering at the back) to make the cable slippy. Accomplice feeds in as straight as poss with no kinks or twists, while you pull from below.


    If there are 2 cables behind common trunking they will have to be pulled as a pair.


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  • 0
    I've done this a few times, success rate about 90% if it moves at all, not worth trying if it does not - you need to form a very flat joint, in the manner of a running splice, so the 3 (or 2 in this case) cores have their looped sections not side by side.

    Do not bother if you and accomplice cannot get the wire to move up and down an inch or 2 behind the capping with sensible hand tension. before even doing this give both ends a quick go with the hoover - a sharp edged  'snot' of  plaster dropping in at the wrong moment could jam it solid.


    Assuming so far, you are in  with a chance...

    Working from above, so gravity is on your side..

    So remove the outer jacket for 4-6 inches on both the old and the new. Strip L and N offset so that there is one with about 1.5 inches of bare copper, and one with more like 3.

    form loops with the round nosed pliers, and then wrap back, or do the western union splice of (page 7 this PDF) set both splices offset, and rebuild with tape to re-create jacket profile, or at least something with no great lumps or steps in diameter. A quick massage with either washing up liquid or that fancy stuff plumbers use (no tittering at the back) to make the cable slippy. Accomplice feeds in as straight as poss with no kinks or twists, while you pull from below.


    If there are 2 cables behind common trunking they will have to be pulled as a pair.


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