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TT/PME Bonding of metal cabinet that houses the DNO Cutout (PME) and Private RCD (TT)

Steve UKBC
Initial Post Edited for clarity/updated info


If anyone could suggest the correct way forward on bonding the cabinet to either PME/TT or neither.


The HV supply comes in to a pole mounted TX, A TNCS/PME supply is provided in a adjacent metal cabinet (Cutout, meter, isolator & fused isolator), proposal is to replace the fused isolator with a MCB & type S 100mA RCD within a plastic enclosure to supply a agriculture/horticulture/residential/glamping site some +100m away.


The feeder cable to DB1 some +100m away has not got a low enough impedance to clear a earth fault with the 100A DNO fuses/fused isolator within 5s required by BS7671, hence the RCD protecting the cable with the cable CPC/swa, connected only at DB1 where the main earth rod is.


The feeder cable to DB1 cannot be replaced/paralleled up.


So we are left with a metal cabinet where the PME supply switches over to a TT.


The question is, do we bond the cabinet to the PME and protect the cabinet from becoming live if the tails where to make contact (blowing the DNO fuses) but in doing so a broken neutral pre cutout would make the cabinet live, or bond the cabinet to the TT earth via the feeder cable SWA to ensure that if a broken neutral occurs that the cabinet does not become live but if the tails where to make contact to the cabinet then cabinet would be live.


I suspect the most likely fault between a broken neutral and tails touching the cabinet would be a broken neutral due to the exposed cables from the pole etc? hence suspect we should connect the cabinet to the TT earth ensuring the tails within the cabinet are well secured?
circuit.pdf
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  • 0
    Sparkingchip:

    Take a step back, what if anything is wrong with the Crabtree Fusestar fused switch?


    It’s a switch with fuses in it, so let’s rule out the fuses as being faulty as they are a replaceable item and really either they are okay or they aren’t, there is a middle ground.


    So if the switch operates and there’s no sign of thermal damage to it it or the fuse holders it doesn’t need replacing, so as the feeder cable is not going to be replaced the Crabtree Fusestar and feeder cable can all be left as it is saving time and money.


    we have not been able to look inside the switch yet or operate it to see for ourselves and only had word from the end user that its lever/mech is faulty (repairable/faulty we cannot say yet)


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  • 0
    Sparkingchip:

    Take a step back, what if anything is wrong with the Crabtree Fusestar fused switch?


    It’s a switch with fuses in it, so let’s rule out the fuses as being faulty as they are a replaceable item and really either they are okay or they aren’t, there is a middle ground.


    So if the switch operates and there’s no sign of thermal damage to it it or the fuse holders it doesn’t need replacing, so as the feeder cable is not going to be replaced the Crabtree Fusestar and feeder cable can all be left as it is saving time and money.


    we have not been able to look inside the switch yet or operate it to see for ourselves and only had word from the end user that its lever/mech is faulty (repairable/faulty we cannot say yet)


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