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EICR Codes help for new Landlord.

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi. I hope you are all well and keeping busy in these strange times. I look after a ladies house who has had to move back abroad and now needs to let the property out and so she has had an EICR done which has come back with saying it needs a total rewire for few grand. 


What I want to know is can I ask info on here about the codes he has put and if reasonable.


I don't won't to upset anyone by second guessing another trades persons work but I would like an idea if this is right or not?


Thanks you


Regards Lee
  • I would like to see the “exposed cables” coded C2 to see what they are and how they are installed.
  • Ridiculous codes although i suspect the conclusion of a rewire is probably correct if it's anything like most of the places i look at that are that age with original fixtures and fittings.  It is just not worth trying to repair anything and you certainly can't add on to it.    There are always hidden horrors and you just can't price to do anything except rewire.  I would not put my name to a satisfactory report on a 50+ year old domestic installation.  Individually things may me ok but as an entire installation it needs sorting out.    


    Gary
  • No one is asking anyone to produce a "satisfactory report". It is not a certificate of anything. It is just Agent speak dictating standards. Is that what you all want?  If so, then ARLA should start a Competent Persons Scheme for EICR for rental. That should be fun.
  • The codes aren’t referenced to anything and the whole point of the NAPIT Codebreakers is to do exactly that.



    So there is no point to them?
  • There is a competent person scheme for rentals i believe.  I can't remember what it's called though.  :)



    Gary
  • PRS Scheme.
  • All is not lost.


    With the very strong caveat that I can only go by the description that has been given, most problems are fixable. I have attached my observations.
    OCR_EICR.pdf


    I don't know what all the "exposed cables" are, but if there is a bit too much copper showing behind sockets, it can be remedied and a bit of green and yellow sleeving added at the same time. It is tedious and fiddly. If there is copper showing in the hatch, and if it is accessible, that should be C1. Feel free to post a photo!


    You need to make all the C2s go away. Some are easy fixes. For some a range of opinion would include C3 - e.g. the bathroom fan.


    For me the biggest problem is the lack of RCD protection and no CPC (earth wire) in the lighting circuits. A new consumer unit is probably highly desirable, but that then I personally would have some misgivings about re-installing the old circuits into it. I would be particularly reluctant if the back boxes, etc. are in a poor state.


    A complete re-wire may have come as something of a shock, but may well be justified. For now, there may be scope for limiting remedial work to a new CU and the bonding, etc. but if the cables are not PVC, then I fear that a complete re-wire will be necessary.


    In terms of the paperwork, the NAPIT software may be easy to use, but the risk with these systems is that they seem to substitute for thinking.
  • Yes Gary, that is the one. But it is not run by Letting Agents......yet.   :)


    edited for Freudian slip [is there a code for that?]


  • aligarjon:

    I would not put my name to a satisfactory report on a 50+ year old domestic installation.


    That's bold!


    My 40 year-old installation at home is perfectly sound. Good workmanship and good quality accessories have doubtless contributed and certainly wouldn't apply everywhere.


  • If the cables are rubber and / or has failed insulation it should say so on the report.


    It would be interesting to read the entire report and see what the insulation test results are recorded as.