Class 1 appliance with no exposed metal work to connect test lead too

Hello Alex13.

You have my sympathy!  The length of this thread demonstrates the unexpected complexity that lies behind a straight forward question.

As you will already know, most portable appliance defects are be found by the visual inspection.  Condition of the casing, condition of the flex, condition of the plug top, security of the flex clamps, correct size fuse etc.  The conditions of use and the age of the appliance may also need to be considered.  This covers perhaps 95% of the inspection issues.

Then come the electrical tests.  For Class I in a plastic case, my approach would certainly be to remove the terminal cover to gain access to the earth terminal, and then carry out a Class I test.  I would make it my business to include all types of tamperproof tool drivers in my kit to deal with this issue.  Should the terminal cover be glued on or otherwise not removable, one hits the buffers.  At this point, if the equipment is otherwise in good order, I would not automatically go down the "Fail" route.  Earthed metalwork is not accessible to the user.  Therefore, with the enclosure integrity already assured by the visual inspection, it cannot present an electric shock hazard to the user. "From what I have seen on my inspection, I would consider this item is safe to use".  This would include testing for a charity shop.  We have too much stuff in landfill around the globe without needlessly adding to it.  If your test sheet means a box can't be ticked, perhaps there's a "Comments" column to allow some explanation of the empty box alongside a "Pass"?  I would look to take that route.  I hope this helps.

Regards,

            Colin Jenkins.

Hello Alex13.

You have my sympathy!  The length of this thread demonstrates the unexpected complexity that lies behind a straight forward question.

As you will already know, most portable appliance defects are be found by the visual inspection.  Condition of the casing, condition of the flex, condition of the plug top, security of the flex clamps, correct size fuse etc.  The conditions of use and the age of the appliance may also need to be considered.  This covers perhaps 95% of the inspection issues.

Then come the electrical tests.  For Class I in a plastic case, my approach would certainly be to remove the terminal cover to gain access to the earth terminal, and then carry out a Class I test.  I would make it my business to include all types of tamperproof tool drivers in my kit to deal with this issue.  Should the terminal cover be glued on or otherwise not removable, one hits the buffers.  At this point, if the equipment is otherwise in good order, I would not automatically go down the "Fail" route.  Earthed metalwork is not accessible to the user.  Therefore, with the enclosure integrity already assured by the visual inspection, it cannot present an electric shock hazard to the user. "From what I have seen on my inspection, I would consider this item is safe to use".  This would include testing for a charity shop.  We have too much stuff in landfill around the globe without needlessly adding to it.  If your test sheet means a box can't be ticked, perhaps there's a "Comments" column to allow some explanation of the empty box alongside a "Pass"?  I would look to take that route.  I hope this helps.

Regards,

            Colin Jenkins.