If you ever want to test MCB function in the sense of is there any magnetic part at all, a car battery and jump leads will get you a kA or two.
Mike
Perhaps it's best to run a section of an an electric fire element in series to reduce the current a bit. I was told off when I admitted to using Wylex B6 M.C.B.s on my 12 Volt D.C. leisure battery boat electrics. A D.C. arc may well weld the contacts together or not be quenched by the arc extinguishers I was told.
Z.
Alasdair Anderson:
Big Clive on YouTube (not our Ancient Mariner) has released a video taking apart a fake Type C circuit breaker which is worth a look, but it is rather worrying what could be out there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TJEzdqtXlQ
I use the "gut feeling" method of approving or rejecting electrical switchgear and wiring accessories. It assumes that anything that looks "cheap," genuine or not, get rejected and I will not use it. Next is the weight, operation and feel of the item.
I have seen installed by others, plastic garage units with an R.C.D. and two M.C.B.s, Generally, after a year or two, after installation the R.C.D. does not reliably trip off when the test button is depressed. The switch feels gritty, cheap and grotty. The whole thing just shouts CHEAP RUBBISH. I will not buy them or install them. They betray themselves by just looking cheap. They remind me of the cheap poor quality Italian electrical stuff of 30 to 40 years ago. Fixscrew stocks this type of rubbish.
Z.
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