ebee:
Adequate fusing required and how do you mitigate a non trip prior to disconnection?
The M.C.B. will open in most cases if there is a large fault. The video shows a round pin plug, so the final circuit will be protected by a 15 or 16 Amp M.C.B. In the U.K. we could always use a 13 Amp plug fitted with a 3 amp fuse and suitable flex rather than singles. Or an approved test lamp as has already been suggested.
Interestingly I have a modern L.E.D. test lamp/Voltage indicator that trips R.C.D.s when I put one probe to L and the other in E, or one in N and the other in E if other loads are connected.
If the R.C.D. trips instantaneously under test it is o.k. If it fails to trip it is broken and should be replaced. If it hums and buzzes and struggles to trip instantaneously, or trips off perhaps after a few seconds, it also should be binned.
After all a test button as used by a householder, if ever they do use it, does not indicate the trip off time. It is just a go/no go test.
Z.
ebee:
Adequate fusing required and how do you mitigate a non trip prior to disconnection?
The M.C.B. will open in most cases if there is a large fault. The video shows a round pin plug, so the final circuit will be protected by a 15 or 16 Amp M.C.B. In the U.K. we could always use a 13 Amp plug fitted with a 3 amp fuse and suitable flex rather than singles. Or an approved test lamp as has already been suggested.
Interestingly I have a modern L.E.D. test lamp/Voltage indicator that trips R.C.D.s when I put one probe to L and the other in E, or one in N and the other in E if other loads are connected.
If the R.C.D. trips instantaneously under test it is o.k. If it fails to trip it is broken and should be replaced. If it hums and buzzes and struggles to trip instantaneously, or trips off perhaps after a few seconds, it also should be binned.
After all a test button as used by a householder, if ever they do use it, does not indicate the trip off time. It is just a go/no go test.
Z.
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