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Number of luminaires on a lighting circuit – new house

Hi,


I am doing a provisional lighting layout for a new house which will use LED lamps throughout. (The final electrical design will be done by the building contractor, but I want to get things right in the design brief  that I give him and want to make sure that I’m not giving him “guidelines” that are not possible to meet.)


The intent is that there will be separate circuits for the ground and first floors, but that additional circuits should not be required. As all of the luminaires will be using low power, mains voltage, LEDs, predominantly downlights, I don’t think there is any concern around exceeding the current capacity of the (1.0 or 1.5mm2) cable and a 6A RCD.


The only issue that I could see is the electrical designer raising is the guidelines in the 2018 On-Site guide in Appendix on Maximum Demand and Diversity. The Appendix is marked as “Guidance Only” but I am concerned that it would be easy for the contactor to just take compliance with it as the easy way out.


Table A1 gives the assumed current demand for a lighting circuit to be 100W per lighting outlet (I guess from when 100W incandescents were the norm), that would be around 12 luminaires or 18 allowing for the diversity in Table A2. (The section does say that “The values given in Table A2, therefore, may be increased or decreased as decided by the installation designer concerned.”)  With LED downlighters everywhere, there will be around 60 luminaires with a load around 300W. (One could take the view that a new owner could replace all the LEDs with 100W fittings, but I think that would be an unreasonable argument.)


Other than arguments around inconvenience should the circuit trip, would it be unreasonable to ask the designer to implement a singe circuit for these loads? (Assuming of course, that the voltage drop was within spec.)


As an aside, is there any reason that external lights could not be on the same RCD protected circuit as the rest of the floor?


Regards

Dave

 


  • Dave Stevenson:
    Zoomup:


    Why do motor cars have dual breaking systems and a hand brake as well, the Americans call the latter an emergency brake.


    Z.



    Because there would be an immediate danger to life if the brake circuit failed - I would suggest that's hardly the same as a lighting circuit going out




    "Circuits" plural! Time was we only had brakes on the back axle and rods or cables to work them. Nowadays, I think that they are fly-by-wire, which I find a little disconcerting.


    I wouldn't fancy driving at night if the fuse went and I couldn't see a thing. ?


    Same really at night when you cannot be bothered to switch on the landing light when answering the call of nature. People have been known to fall down the stairs as a result!


  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    I wouldn't fancy driving at night if the fuse went and I couldn't see a thing.


    I noticed one of my dipped beams had packed up (H4) so as the other one was working I went through the unenviable task of replacing it only to find it still didn't work. Turns out my assumption of dip being fused as a pair was wrong and I have a fuse per filament including the integral spotlights. The loom had chafed from the pop up headlight....... Really should have checked the fuses first.......


    But, at least if one filament fails, I'm not left in the dark.


    Regards


    BOD


  • davezawadi (David Stone):

    I know you are always very aware of fire Z, but this is ridiculous. You need to realise that LED power supplies are inherently fire resistant in several ways. The components used are very small, they are often the fastest fuses known to man, and cannot dissipate many watts without vapourising. To start a fire one needs significant power dissipation but this is close to impossible with these items, at perhaps 5W maximum, and if anything goes short circuit (which it almost certainly will) the current will trip the circuit OPD. 


     A 16 Amp M.C.B. needs many Amps  trip it off. Especially a C16 type on a short circuit. So, do L.E.D. luminaries have internal fuses or do they just rely upon their tiny electronic parts exploding to clear a fault? I don't really like the thought of that happening. I know that the old wound toroidal lighting transformers had an electrical fuse, and a thermal fuse embedded into the windings for safety.


    Years ago, even electric clock points has a cartridge fuse, normally 1 Amp rated, for an electric clock that posed little fire risk or overload risk. Also Friedland bell transformers had internal fusing to supply just E.L.V. door bells. 


    Z.


  • Zoomup:
    davezawadi (David Stone):

    I know you are always very aware of fire Z, but this is ridiculous. You need to realise that LED power supplies are inherently fire resistant in several ways. The components used are very small, they are often the fastest fuses known to man, and cannot dissipate many watts without vapourising. To start a fire one needs significant power dissipation but this is close to impossible with these items, at perhaps 5W maximum, and if anything goes short circuit (which it almost certainly will) the current will trip the circuit OPD. 


     A 16 Amp M.C.B. needs many Amps  trip it off. Especially a C16 type on a short circuit. So, do L.E.D. luminaries have internal fuses or do they just rely upon their tiny electronic parts exploding to clear a fault? I don't really like the thought of that happening. I know that the old wound toroidal lighting transformers had an electrical fuse, and a thermal fuse embedded into the windings for safety.


    Years ago, even electric clock points has a cartridge fuse, normally 1 Amp rated, for an electric clock that posed little fire risk or overload risk. Also Friedland bell transformers had internal fusing to supply just E.L.V. door bells. 


    Z.




    Update. After just carrying out a kitchen table experiment I have found out that the G.U.10 L.E.D. lamps that I use do not burn. The lamps are encapsulated in a white "plastic" and have a clear lens.  I applied a cigarette lighter flame to the white plastic body and the plastic did not burn. No smoke was evident as well. It did become soft though as I found out when I burnt my finger tip when pushing on it. So the lamps may contain exploding components during an internal fault. I wonder how loud the bang will be? If the lamp was subjected to continued heat it may soften, melt and fall apart and bits fall out onto the floor.


    Z.


  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Weren’t  fire hoods and later fire resistant fittings for downlighting only introduced as they were being installed either to close to wooden joists or covered in insulation, I don’t believe it was for the actual lamps catching fire.


  • I think that the requirement for fireproof downlighters or fire hoods is driven not so much by the risk of the luminaire catching fire, it is driven by the need to protect the integrity of the ceiling, or rather, the floor above it, where there is a "habitable space" above the room, i.e., to maintain the fire rating of the ceiling. Where there is no habitable space above, neither are mandated. The floor/ceiling construction in modern homes is scary! - Do a search for photos of engineered joists after a fire - you might get a shock - I did! 


    I think in response to these modern construction methods, the Technical Handbook that support Scottish building regulations now require fire protection for "elements of structure", i.e., the floor joists. If, for example, the fire protection (plasterboard) is applied to the bottom joist flange, then any ceiling below them need not have a fire rating, hence fireproof downlighters or fire hoods are not required. Most new builds won't have that void space, mine does. (There may be a requirement for fire detection in the void space, but that is under discussion with Building Control at the moment)
  • Dave Stevenson:


    I think that the requirement for fireproof downlighters or fire hoods is driven not so much by the risk of the luminaire catching fire, it is driven by the need to protect the integrity of the ceiling, or rather, the floor above it, where there is a "habitable space" above the room, i.e., to maintain the fire rating of the ceiling. Where there is no habitable space above, neither are mandated. The floor/ceiling construction in modern homes is scary! - Do a search for photos of engineered joists after a fire - you might get a shock - I did! 


    I think in response to these modern construction methods, the Technical Handbook that support Scottish building regulations now require fire protection for "elements of structure", i.e., the floor joists. If, for example, the fire protection (plasterboard) is applied to the bottom joist flange, then any ceiling below them need not have a fire rating, hence fireproof downlighters or fire hoods are not required. Most new builds won't have that void space, mine does. (There may be a requirement for fire detection in the void space, but that is under discussion with Building Control at the moment) 


    Wot, this sort of consideration?

    The NHBC burns a hole in fire rated downlight certification with i joists - Bing video


    Z.


  • Dave Stevenson:

    I think that the requirement for fireproof downlighters or fire hoods is driven not so much by the risk of the luminaire catching fire, it is driven by the need to protect the integrity of the ceiling, or rather, the floor above it ...


    I thought about that. It explains why some luminaires have intumescent seals around the flange, but not the hoods as such. IMHO, the reason for putting a hood over a luminaire is also about giving it space to warm up. I prefer the sort of luminaire which specifies that it may be covered directly by (loft) insulation, but even then in my own house, I would want to install some sort of batten to keep the insulation off the luminaire.


    What is a little odd is that such luminaires still specify a minimum distance from joists. That is a real PITA when you have spent time working out the positions of luminaires only to find that a joist is in the way.


  • Chris Pearson:


    I have lived here for 24 years and never had to reset an MCB.



    Perhaps they are suffering from sticktion Chris.


    Z.


  • Zoomup:
    Chris Pearson:


    I have lived here for 24 years and never had to reset an MCB.



    Perhaps they are suffering from sticktion Chris.




    No, I can turn them off and on for isolation; but if this thread is anything to go by, there may be nothing inside. ?