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bonding a short section of water supply pipe

In a victorian terrace house, a lead water supply pipe enters the damp cellar, runs about a meter along the wall to the main brass stopcock, then converts to plastic pipe before exiting the cellar to the rest of the house (which is likely to be a mixture of copper and plastic). The stopcock is a couple of feet away from the CU. Should the supply pipe be bonded? My feeling is no, but I'd be interested in other opinions.


While I'm on the subject, a more general question. Why must any bonding be done after the main stopcock? For example where the supply tees off immediately after the stopcock, is it better to bond one of the tees, or bond just before the stopcock? Where there is a long run of supply pipe before the stopcock, is it better to bond after, with a long MPBC run back to the MET, or bond it near the MET even where that's before the stopcock?
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  • lead and making ingots at home. So easy. Could you do that with copper?


    Yes, but not so easily - lead you can melt in a steel baked bean can on the BBQ, copper would require forced air probably to heat a reasonable volume to melting temps with charcoal. Brass is slightly easier - a brazing torch will do it (the clue is in the name, but Brass melts at ~ 900C or so, copper more like 1080C. Lead at 330C if pure, less in soft solder).

    To melt a lead pipe electrically however would require a fantastic number of amps, unless you could draw an air arc to get some local heating, and with plasma then the choice metal is neither here nor there, you can melt pretty much anything. However as various folk trying to trip AFDDs have found getting an arc to sustain to a low melting point metal is quite hard, it tends to migrate and either fuse to dead short so the arc goes out, or burn back until the gap increases to the point where the arc goes out.

    Mike.
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  • lead and making ingots at home. So easy. Could you do that with copper?


    Yes, but not so easily - lead you can melt in a steel baked bean can on the BBQ, copper would require forced air probably to heat a reasonable volume to melting temps with charcoal. Brass is slightly easier - a brazing torch will do it (the clue is in the name, but Brass melts at ~ 900C or so, copper more like 1080C. Lead at 330C if pure, less in soft solder).

    To melt a lead pipe electrically however would require a fantastic number of amps, unless you could draw an air arc to get some local heating, and with plasma then the choice metal is neither here nor there, you can melt pretty much anything. However as various folk trying to trip AFDDs have found getting an arc to sustain to a low melting point metal is quite hard, it tends to migrate and either fuse to dead short so the arc goes out, or burn back until the gap increases to the point where the arc goes out.

    Mike.
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