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Radial Voltage Drop Calculation?... By Load or MCB Rating?

I'm doing the calculation for total voltage drop.  I have 14 radials/ways going out.  As I understand it, that would equal a max allowance of 0.285% voltage drop per radial/way.  Or some sort of mixture throughout not exceeding the 4% drop allowance overall.  Firstly, is this correct? 


Secondly, should I be doing my calculations based on actual Load or the MCB ratings of the individual radials/ways? 


Thanks in advance!
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  • The problem of being too specific, is that without seeing  the parts, advice is likely to be wrong.  Do the terminals of the heaters get hot ? how hot?  If they get hotter then PVC would like then rubber is better. Do the makers recommend a particular flex- is the cord grip  expecting a cable without a screen like H07 x , or if there an obvious place to terminate with a screen, then CY maybe - is the cable hole  circular or oval ?

    how long is the hop from heater to isolator, and is it in a place where it will get scuffed as folk wall by or push a trolley past ?

    Same applies to the fixed stuff - If it can be tied back out of the way almost anything that fits the terminals will do OK, but if it might sustain knocks and bumps then something like SWA is safer, but dearer and more wilful to fit. Think of NYY as looking like SWA but without the armour, so easier to fit, but needs routing in safe zones, or protecting, much as flat twin and earth would, but NYY is better than T and E for UV and for glanding to be watertight.

    Mike.
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  • The problem of being too specific, is that without seeing  the parts, advice is likely to be wrong.  Do the terminals of the heaters get hot ? how hot?  If they get hotter then PVC would like then rubber is better. Do the makers recommend a particular flex- is the cord grip  expecting a cable without a screen like H07 x , or if there an obvious place to terminate with a screen, then CY maybe - is the cable hole  circular or oval ?

    how long is the hop from heater to isolator, and is it in a place where it will get scuffed as folk wall by or push a trolley past ?

    Same applies to the fixed stuff - If it can be tied back out of the way almost anything that fits the terminals will do OK, but if it might sustain knocks and bumps then something like SWA is safer, but dearer and more wilful to fit. Think of NYY as looking like SWA but without the armour, so easier to fit, but needs routing in safe zones, or protecting, much as flat twin and earth would, but NYY is better than T and E for UV and for glanding to be watertight.

    Mike.
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