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1930s Wiring.

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I attended an ex WW2 military barracks hut today. Timber construction now. It is used as a holiday chalet for visitors. Nice rubber insulated cables. Not in bad condition considering their age. Nice brown circular M.E.M. bakelite tumbler light switches. Also the earthing conductor (7 strand tinned copper) at the earth rod just came away from the rod when inspected.


There was a problem though. A light switch did not turn off the kitchen light, it just stayed on.  It was suspected to be faulty. I removed it, lubricated it, although the original grease was still quite good but limited. The switch was replaced and the light still stayed on constantly. When the switch was taken off the wall again the kitchen light still stayed on continually with no wall switch fitted. I suspect that the switch live and permanent supply live have melded together under pressure at the lighting point.


These old installations are just so interesting.


Repairs tomorrow.


Z.
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    The earlier described way of wiring a two way lighting circuit, is not "allowed" in the USA but is regrettably common. In New York it might be called "A California 3 way" and IN California it might be known as "A redneck 3 way" or in any urban area the system might be called "farm 3 way"

    "American 2 way switching" is a mildly rude term applied by UK electricians who discover the system used over here. Controlling the same lamp from two positions is known as 3 way switching in America.


    Not to be confused with "3 way bulbs" a type of filament lamp with two different  wattage filaments, in order that three different lighting levels may be selected by use of the smaller filament, the larger filament, or both together.

    The desired light output was usually selected by a 4 position rotary switch built into the lamp holder, this limited use to table lamps, floor standard lamps and the like within easy reach.

    The special lamp holders were available built into ceiling mounted lights, with a wall mounted switch.

    Used to be popular in America and are still widely used, with both the original twin filament style or low energy equivalents available.

    Also used in the UK but never a mass market item, 230 volt 3 way lamps are no longer available AFAIK.


    Common wattages were 40/60/100 watt or 60/100160 watt, with a special 3 contact screw base. Or 100/150/250 watt with a special 3 contact large screw base.

    There also existed a version with two filaments of very different wattages, such as 15 watt and 200 watts for night lighting in hospitals etc. These only gave two usefully different lighting levels, the difference 200 watts and 215 watts being insignificant.
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  • 0
    The earlier described way of wiring a two way lighting circuit, is not "allowed" in the USA but is regrettably common. In New York it might be called "A California 3 way" and IN California it might be known as "A redneck 3 way" or in any urban area the system might be called "farm 3 way"

    "American 2 way switching" is a mildly rude term applied by UK electricians who discover the system used over here. Controlling the same lamp from two positions is known as 3 way switching in America.


    Not to be confused with "3 way bulbs" a type of filament lamp with two different  wattage filaments, in order that three different lighting levels may be selected by use of the smaller filament, the larger filament, or both together.

    The desired light output was usually selected by a 4 position rotary switch built into the lamp holder, this limited use to table lamps, floor standard lamps and the like within easy reach.

    The special lamp holders were available built into ceiling mounted lights, with a wall mounted switch.

    Used to be popular in America and are still widely used, with both the original twin filament style or low energy equivalents available.

    Also used in the UK but never a mass market item, 230 volt 3 way lamps are no longer available AFAIK.


    Common wattages were 40/60/100 watt or 60/100160 watt, with a special 3 contact screw base. Or 100/150/250 watt with a special 3 contact large screw base.

    There also existed a version with two filaments of very different wattages, such as 15 watt and 200 watts for night lighting in hospitals etc. These only gave two usefully different lighting levels, the difference 200 watts and 215 watts being insignificant.
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