Range Cooker Connection Refusal.

I cannot agree with you above Graham, although the “paying for 2 MCBs” comment might suit the manufacturer to make £1 more profit is possible. 

Looking at the technical points, this appliance has a rating (the maximum possible draw) of 11.75kW. this is a consumption of 51A at 230V. There can be no reason why this should not be the final circuit rating, although it will probably never be reached due to diversity. If I fit a 40A breaker it will probably never trip, but even so, it is directed as a maximum by the instructions. These may have been written to minimise the chance of a fault damaging the appliance wiring, but at either 40 or 50A, this is unlikely unless it is the power to the clock. In any case, if there is an Earth fault that does damage something other than the fault, does it matter? I suggest not, except to the manufacturer who hopes to limit guarantee costs. I expect that an additional £1 for an MCB would be cheap insurance. It is worth noticing that most appliances contain some kind of CPD, be it a fuse or whatever. Even wall warts tend to have a thermal switch or fuse, although made down to a very low cost. The size of the appliance terminals is a weak excuse, any competent electrician will easily cope with this, by using crimp tags or the methods given above.

edit : I will add one extra point. It is often difficult to add another circuit to many modern properties because of the construction, typically concrete floors both up and down. Mostly it should not be necessary, and it is simply needlessly expensive.

I am glad that you too have noticed how poor the instructions often are.

I cannot agree with you above Graham, although the “paying for 2 MCBs” comment might suit the manufacturer to make £1 more profit is possible. 

Looking at the technical points, this appliance has a rating (the maximum possible draw) of 11.75kW. this is a consumption of 51A at 230V. There can be no reason why this should not be the final circuit rating, although it will probably never be reached due to diversity. If I fit a 40A breaker it will probably never trip, but even so, it is directed as a maximum by the instructions. These may have been written to minimise the chance of a fault damaging the appliance wiring, but at either 40 or 50A, this is unlikely unless it is the power to the clock. In any case, if there is an Earth fault that does damage something other than the fault, does it matter? I suggest not, except to the manufacturer who hopes to limit guarantee costs. I expect that an additional £1 for an MCB would be cheap insurance. It is worth noticing that most appliances contain some kind of CPD, be it a fuse or whatever. Even wall warts tend to have a thermal switch or fuse, although made down to a very low cost. The size of the appliance terminals is a weak excuse, any competent electrician will easily cope with this, by using crimp tags or the methods given above.

edit : I will add one extra point. It is often difficult to add another circuit to many modern properties because of the construction, typically concrete floors both up and down. Mostly it should not be necessary, and it is simply needlessly expensive.

I am glad that you too have noticed how poor the instructions often are.