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Question about Output Power of Batteries in Domestic Solar PV Installation

Hi, hoping for a bit of advice. Last year, I took up a local authority (Sussex, England) offer to get a quote for a PV installation on our 1960s bungalow. An initial estimate based on info I'd supplied duly came through. In general it looked sensible enough.

Specifically, it suggested that we would be able to use 1,100kWhr of solar power if no battery was installed; or 3,200kWhr (our entire usage) if a 6.1kWhr battery was added.

However, I wondered if that allowed for specific appliances (information they didn't have, AFAIK), especially the 10kW electric shower. I asked what the maximum output (Watts or Amps) of the battery was.

They couldn't answer, unless I paid the £100 deposit to proceed, which seemed a bit unhelpful. I couldn't readily find said info online, either.

A little bit of modelling this evening:

  • I assumed that high load appliances were never, ever, used at the same time.
  • We have electric shower, kettle, oven, washing machine etc.
  • No electric space or tap water heating, and no electric hob, no dishwasher either.
  • I chose an arbitrary 2kW “limit” to the battery power, sufficient to power smaller high-power appliances, but less than kettle or shower.

 

Result suggests that of our roughly 3,200kWhr annual usage:

  • ⅓ is low-load appliances that may be on quite a lot of the time. Readily supplied from a battery, I'd think.
  • ⅓ is appliances up to 2kW that may be on occasionally. This includes the first 2kW of big wattage units like the kettle & shower, which assumes that a high load can be shared between battery and incoming supply, rather than just turning the battery off.
  • ⅓  is the portion of high-load appliances that exceeds 2kW. The vast majority of this is the shower.

 

So, clearly, the ability of the battery to power high wattage appliances over 2kW is quite important to the overall payback, up to a maximum of 10kW at least.

Does anyone here know what the maximum instantaneous output (sustainable for say 10 minutes) of these domestic battery systems is likely to be?

Also, depending on battery technology, it strikes me that heavy use of the shower during gloomy months could run close to the batteries real capacity limit: I don't know how these systems are quoted, I do know for our camper van there are dire warnings of consequences if more than 50% of the lead-acid habitation battery nominal capacity is used.

Parents
  • A 3.6kWp hybrid PV/Battery inverter and charger will be the largest permissible under the G98 requirements for grid tied microgeneration. Combined with the 6kWh battery capacity it should cover most of your requirements for six months of the year but surplus solar in the winter months can be an issue. One useful feature is the option with many chargers to have some house circuits configured to use the emergency backup facility in a power cut. These will need to be carefully chosen to avoid overloading the inverter so usually are lighting and fridge/freezer circuits. 

    One option is to move to an ev tariff for your electricity. Octopus Go is a tariff that costs 5p/kWh from 0:30 to 04:30 every night. This is not solely a tariff for ev owners and if you have a battery system it allows you to charge up at 5p per unit which you then use the rest of the day to cover base load when solar output is low. All this is usually simple to program. Obviously any demand exceeding the 3kW inverter output capacity will still need a share of grid power at higher cost. These systems are designed to maximise battery life by preventing discharge to a damaging level and can be expected to last 10 years. If you want a separate battery charger system it is the combined capacity that is available. This however must be installed under G99 requirements. This might mean on a sunny day with 3kW output from solar and 3kW output capacity from the battery system your 9kW shower only uses 3kW from the grid i.e. ⅓rd of normal cost. A 10 minute shower would only take 0.5kWh (1/6 X 3) from the 6kWh battery so leave plenty to cover evening base load occasional kettle etc. Adding additional solar capacity may not be cost effective unless you have ev and or AHP heating when compared to cheap overnight tariff for charging. There are solar diverters available that boost the hot water immersion heater from solar surplus and these are a good option without a battery system to make use of the surplus. Some ev chargers also can use surplus so again are a good option if you have a larger PV system.

    There's a lot of content on line that can help with decision making. I have a 2.6kWp solar system that even in the north of Scotland provides our baseload during daylight in all but the cloudiest of days most of the year. This summer we have had sufficient surplus to heat the water tank via a diverter almost every day. I'm hoping the battery inverter systems reduce in price as battery technology develops and costs reduce. Given the present cost per unit it is probably cost effective especially if the system lasts 10 years.

Reply
  • A 3.6kWp hybrid PV/Battery inverter and charger will be the largest permissible under the G98 requirements for grid tied microgeneration. Combined with the 6kWh battery capacity it should cover most of your requirements for six months of the year but surplus solar in the winter months can be an issue. One useful feature is the option with many chargers to have some house circuits configured to use the emergency backup facility in a power cut. These will need to be carefully chosen to avoid overloading the inverter so usually are lighting and fridge/freezer circuits. 

    One option is to move to an ev tariff for your electricity. Octopus Go is a tariff that costs 5p/kWh from 0:30 to 04:30 every night. This is not solely a tariff for ev owners and if you have a battery system it allows you to charge up at 5p per unit which you then use the rest of the day to cover base load when solar output is low. All this is usually simple to program. Obviously any demand exceeding the 3kW inverter output capacity will still need a share of grid power at higher cost. These systems are designed to maximise battery life by preventing discharge to a damaging level and can be expected to last 10 years. If you want a separate battery charger system it is the combined capacity that is available. This however must be installed under G99 requirements. This might mean on a sunny day with 3kW output from solar and 3kW output capacity from the battery system your 9kW shower only uses 3kW from the grid i.e. ⅓rd of normal cost. A 10 minute shower would only take 0.5kWh (1/6 X 3) from the 6kWh battery so leave plenty to cover evening base load occasional kettle etc. Adding additional solar capacity may not be cost effective unless you have ev and or AHP heating when compared to cheap overnight tariff for charging. There are solar diverters available that boost the hot water immersion heater from solar surplus and these are a good option without a battery system to make use of the surplus. Some ev chargers also can use surplus so again are a good option if you have a larger PV system.

    There's a lot of content on line that can help with decision making. I have a 2.6kWp solar system that even in the north of Scotland provides our baseload during daylight in all but the cloudiest of days most of the year. This summer we have had sufficient surplus to heat the water tank via a diverter almost every day. I'm hoping the battery inverter systems reduce in price as battery technology develops and costs reduce. Given the present cost per unit it is probably cost effective especially if the system lasts 10 years.

Children
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