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Simple batten lighting diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member

Can somebody point me in the direction of a SIMPLE batten lighting diagram where

a) its in a divided outbuilding

b) its a radial circuit 

c) from the consumer unit (In the Outbuilding) , room 1 has 1 switch and 1 batten LED light

d) continuing from room 1, room 2 has 1 switch for 2 batten LED lights

e) both rooms/switches need to be totally independent of each other as there are 2 separate entry points.

 

Thanks in Advance.

  • Steve Mc: 
     

    Can somebody point me in the direction of a SIMPLE batten lighting diagram where

    a) its in a divided outbuilding

    b) its a radial circuit 

    c) from the consumer unit (In the Outbuilding) , room 1 has 1 switch and 1 batten LED light

    d) continuing from room 1, room 2 has 1 switch for 2 batten LED lights

    e) both rooms/switches need to be totally independent of each other as there are 2 separate entry points.

     

    Thanks in Advance.

    Give me your tuck and I will do your homework for you.

     

    Z.

  • See the source image
  • Two plate method.

     

  • Two plate method

  • This reads rather like the questions you answer after reading chapter 1 in a text book, as no-one specifies a real job like that.

    I will not draw it, but I will list the key points.

    Now in the UK pretty much all lighting circuits are radials of one sort or another. In this case one 3 core cable will leave the consumer unit and go to the first room. If the 3 core un-switched supply loops onwards to the second room at the switch, or at the light fitting, or at a dedicated junction box, is very much a choice dictated by the layout, and what materials are in the back of the truck, and to some extent your own style.

    In each room the live pole of the switched supply goes into the local switch, and the switched live coming put on the other side of the switch goes on to the light fitting. Neutral and earth go to the fitting.  If a blue wire is used as the switched live, it should be oversleeved or tape tagged in brown at the ends - as it is NOT a neutral. 

    Looping supply at the switch and then carrying only a switched L, and N, to the fitting means there is a neutral at the switch, which is helpful for certain types of dimmers and time switches, but does mean the back box is fuller and may need to be deeper.

    Mike.

     

  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member

    Thanks zoom but its not a pendant fitting its an LED batten light 

  • It is common to duplicate the wiring that would be in a ceiling rose of a pendant fitting in a junction box behind a batten.  Or even to install a ceiling rose beside and a few inches of flex.

    A ceiling rose is after all not much more than a joint box with a cable grip and a fancy lid.

    Set into a plasterboard ceiling a dry lining box may be used.

  • In domestic environments I usually find all the wires stuffed into the baton with a few choc connectors and no G/Y sleeving

  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member

    Zoomup: 
     

    zoom good diagram if you are feeding 1 lamp but i need to extend the cable to a second switch?