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Current rating of twin 13 amp sockets ?

Is there any reliable information as to the current rating of a twin 13 amp socket.

Sounds simple enough, but views seem to differ. I was taught (decades ago) that a twin 13 amp socket manufactured to the relevant standards was suitable for a total load of 20 amps. And I recall that approval testing was done with 14 amps on one outlet and 6 amps on the other.

More recently though I recall respected members of this, and other forums, stating that the maximum total load is 13 amps and not 20 amps. And yes I know that 13 amp twin sockets  are marked “13 amps” on the back. But does this mean “maximum total load of 13 amps” or does it mean “intended to accept 13 amp plugs”

Any reliable views on this, preferably with a source.

And related to the above, I have heard that MK twin 13 amp sockets go beyond the minimum standards and are designed for a total loading of 26 amps. Can anyone confirm or deny this. And yes I have asked MK and have received several different answers !

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  • Chris Pearson: 
    I have just checked. Drier is 2850 W and washer 2400 W.

    I have no idea how often the drier's thermostat will cycle the heating elements, but it goes continuously for up to 40 min.

    The washer uses 49 kWh per 100 washes so it clearly cannot use full power for more than about 10 minutes per wash.

    It does depend on:

    • How frequently they are on for together
    • Whether the tumble dryer is often used on high heat settings
    • How near the standard limits of temperature rise the plugs and socket-outlet gets
    • How much ventilation there is around the socket-outlet.

     

    As examples:

    • I've seen more problems with a twin trailing socket-outlet (but that's obvious, as there are likely more twin fixed sockets on a 2.5 sq mm run or ring rather than a 1.5 sq mm spur, so potentially the cable is hotter in the first place).
    • I've seen more problems with double socket-outlets in certain kinds of plastic backbox in kitchen cupboards, than I have in or on brick walls.
    • I've seen more problems with double socket-outlets where there's likely insulation in the walls (higher cable temperature).

     

    Just because this arrangement of your particular model of washing machine & tumble dryer (and the respective usage cycle) is OK in one installation, does not mean it's OK in every installation. 

Reply
  • Chris Pearson: 
    I have just checked. Drier is 2850 W and washer 2400 W.

    I have no idea how often the drier's thermostat will cycle the heating elements, but it goes continuously for up to 40 min.

    The washer uses 49 kWh per 100 washes so it clearly cannot use full power for more than about 10 minutes per wash.

    It does depend on:

    • How frequently they are on for together
    • Whether the tumble dryer is often used on high heat settings
    • How near the standard limits of temperature rise the plugs and socket-outlet gets
    • How much ventilation there is around the socket-outlet.

     

    As examples:

    • I've seen more problems with a twin trailing socket-outlet (but that's obvious, as there are likely more twin fixed sockets on a 2.5 sq mm run or ring rather than a 1.5 sq mm spur, so potentially the cable is hotter in the first place).
    • I've seen more problems with double socket-outlets in certain kinds of plastic backbox in kitchen cupboards, than I have in or on brick walls.
    • I've seen more problems with double socket-outlets where there's likely insulation in the walls (higher cable temperature).

     

    Just because this arrangement of your particular model of washing machine & tumble dryer (and the respective usage cycle) is OK in one installation, does not mean it's OK in every installation. 

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