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Current rating of twin 13 amp sockets ?

Is there any reliable information as to the current rating of a twin 13 amp socket.

Sounds simple enough, but views seem to differ. I was taught (decades ago) that a twin 13 amp socket manufactured to the relevant standards was suitable for a total load of 20 amps. And I recall that approval testing was done with 14 amps on one outlet and 6 amps on the other.

More recently though I recall respected members of this, and other forums, stating that the maximum total load is 13 amps and not 20 amps. And yes I know that 13 amp twin sockets  are marked “13 amps” on the back. But does this mean “maximum total load of 13 amps” or does it mean “intended to accept 13 amp plugs”

Any reliable views on this, preferably with a source.

And related to the above, I have heard that MK twin 13 amp sockets go beyond the minimum standards and are designed for a total loading of 26 amps. Can anyone confirm or deny this. And yes I have asked MK and have received several different answers !

Parents
  • whjohnson: 
     

    Agree with the premise Grahame, but the problem is that the bean counters have value-engineered any previous durability out of the likes of the humble 13A socket these days. Having stripped a few from different brands and different eras, I can tell you that there is next to no copper or brass alloy inside today's accessories, merely cad plated steel.

    If people want a double socket-outlet that retails for £1.00 inc VAT in ones, what can you do? Given the technical justification of point loading on the ring, and the abundance of low-power appliances predominating most of what we plug in at home, is there an actual problem?

    There's no right answer to this, but the UK is criticised for over-engineered plug and socket-outlet solution around the world. I often wonder myself whether we should we keep holding on to this (undoubtedly great but) outdated solution of a fused (large) plug and ring final circuit?

    Surely, with the exception of the shutter system, this solution's days are numbered given:

    • Size and weight of plugs
    • Energy needlessly lost in plug fuses
    • Likelihood of safety issues in a 32 A ring-final vs 16 A or 20 A radial

    I'd also like to see the number of accidents and extent of injuries from people treading on the UK plug, which always falls pins-up, than other solutions.
     

    MK used to warrant their outlets to stand a continuous 18A indefinitely but that applied to the old square edged 1980s style sockets with the chocolate brown plastic housing on the rear. Having stripped a number of these I can tell you that there are big copper strips present and solid brass screws and tunnel terminals too.

    No wonder the things lasted well.

    Agreed … but in relative terms, how much were these products? I do have quite a few older accessories floating around, and yes they are definitely made from more sturdy stuff.

    We say “better engineered” … but engineering isn't just “make it good”, there's always a budget.

    Contrast this with the ever failing MK Logic range - I've lost count of the numbers of sockets and light switches I have been called out to. Strip one of these and you find that there is a distinct paucity of non-ferrous metal present, and what there is can hardly be described as what I would term fit for purpose. There is a case for dedicated  4.00mm radials protected with 20A opds for appliances rated at 1.2 KW or more and connected via 20A outlet plates instead of Rings and 13A sockets in my view. 

    Agreed

Reply
  • whjohnson: 
     

    Agree with the premise Grahame, but the problem is that the bean counters have value-engineered any previous durability out of the likes of the humble 13A socket these days. Having stripped a few from different brands and different eras, I can tell you that there is next to no copper or brass alloy inside today's accessories, merely cad plated steel.

    If people want a double socket-outlet that retails for £1.00 inc VAT in ones, what can you do? Given the technical justification of point loading on the ring, and the abundance of low-power appliances predominating most of what we plug in at home, is there an actual problem?

    There's no right answer to this, but the UK is criticised for over-engineered plug and socket-outlet solution around the world. I often wonder myself whether we should we keep holding on to this (undoubtedly great but) outdated solution of a fused (large) plug and ring final circuit?

    Surely, with the exception of the shutter system, this solution's days are numbered given:

    • Size and weight of plugs
    • Energy needlessly lost in plug fuses
    • Likelihood of safety issues in a 32 A ring-final vs 16 A or 20 A radial

    I'd also like to see the number of accidents and extent of injuries from people treading on the UK plug, which always falls pins-up, than other solutions.
     

    MK used to warrant their outlets to stand a continuous 18A indefinitely but that applied to the old square edged 1980s style sockets with the chocolate brown plastic housing on the rear. Having stripped a number of these I can tell you that there are big copper strips present and solid brass screws and tunnel terminals too.

    No wonder the things lasted well.

    Agreed … but in relative terms, how much were these products? I do have quite a few older accessories floating around, and yes they are definitely made from more sturdy stuff.

    We say “better engineered” … but engineering isn't just “make it good”, there's always a budget.

    Contrast this with the ever failing MK Logic range - I've lost count of the numbers of sockets and light switches I have been called out to. Strip one of these and you find that there is a distinct paucity of non-ferrous metal present, and what there is can hardly be described as what I would term fit for purpose. There is a case for dedicated  4.00mm radials protected with 20A opds for appliances rated at 1.2 KW or more and connected via 20A outlet plates instead of Rings and 13A sockets in my view. 

    Agreed

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