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Zone 1.

Zoomup

After an N.I.C.E.I.C E.I.C.R. report I attended to see about some remedial work.

The house is TN-S supplied with a Ze of 0.64 Ohms. The main earthing conductor just pulled out when I tugged on it in the presence of the homeowner. Not good.

Anyway, in the bathroom is a cast iron bath tub. Immediately above it is a chrome finish spot light bar, reported to be suitable for zone 1 use. I do not know if it is a Class 1 or 2 fitting at this stage, but the owner will give me details later on.

A person standing in the bath tub can easily touch the metal luminaire as it is very low, mounted on a wooden beam.

Would you bond it to the bath tub pipework?

 

Z.

 

 

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    As a general principle, earthing metalwork on Class II appliances causes more problems than it solves. On of the big advantages of Class II is that it can't import nasty voltages from elsewhere in the installation. Earth it and you loose that advantage and the resulting risk can't entirely be eliminated by supplementary bonding.

    Any Class II appliance should have sufficient ‘creepage and clearance’ distances between live parts and anything else that leakage currents to exposed metalwork should be tiny even if it does gets damp.

       - Andy.

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  • 0

    As a general principle, earthing metalwork on Class II appliances causes more problems than it solves. On of the big advantages of Class II is that it can't import nasty voltages from elsewhere in the installation. Earth it and you loose that advantage and the resulting risk can't entirely be eliminated by supplementary bonding.

    Any Class II appliance should have sufficient ‘creepage and clearance’ distances between live parts and anything else that leakage currents to exposed metalwork should be tiny even if it does gets damp.

       - Andy.

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